2-Pack CR10 Z axis T8 Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut Elimination Gap Brass Nuts for Upgrade Ender 3 Ender 3s Ender 3 Pro V2 CR-10 Tornado 3D Printer 8mm Acme Threaded Rod (Nuts)

The set comes with two units. On both of them, the threads were too tight. I should have known when I threaded them on (it took too much force to get the Z rods started). Because theyre so tight, it caused a ton of binding. Put my originals back on and I was back to buttery smooth. I really just wanted to try these for fun - turned into an annoying afternoon project. I do not recommend.

Attempted to use these with some Oldham couplings on my Ender 3 Pro but had to use the original factory z screw nuts instead since the bolt hole pattern was too wide on these. Unfortunately cant return now as past the date. 1 star as description states it works with Ender 3 Pro.

This worked perfectly on my Ender 3 to keep the gantry from dropping whenever the stepper motors disengaged. In this sense it was a life saver. The reason for one star off is that the threads are rough and getting it on to the z-axis screw was a PITA. It kept catching and binding no matter how gentle I was with threading it on. I ended up having to grease the inside of the threads on both pieces of the anti-backlash ends and even then I had to push with some solid pressure past the point where it started binding. Once I got past that (about 2-3 turns) it threaded on smoothly as if it never had a problem. This made installation frustrating. Install took about 20 minutes. Should have been 5-10. In the end though it works great and does exactly what it was designed to do. Havent had a single drop on the gantry since installing. Only downside is that when I disable my stepper motors, I cant move it up and down the z-axis by hand anymore. Its a bummer, but Id much rather have it be stable. Despite my frustrations, its still a good deal and would definitely buy one for any future printer.

Good product for the price

Easy to install. Just do one side at a time.

Okay, think about a ruler hanging over the edge of a table 10 inches, its easy to press down and deflect the ruler with your finger because the rulers resistance at 10 inches is very low. Now if you draw the ruler in so that most of it is touching the table and only 1 inch is hanging over the table, it is very hard to deflect. **** Well, this is the issue with binding, not only the two screws that secure the bearing/backlash nut need to be loosened, but also the two screws for the adapter that hold the lead screw to the motor, and the screws that hold the motor to the 90 degree mounting plate. Loosen all six of these screws. Make sure the bearing/backlash nut is greased well and run your Z-stage all the way down to the limit switch and make sure it is resting against the limit switch when you tighten it down. **** Why? Because the lead screw flexes the least in this position, so we want the placement of all elements to favor running true at the limit switch. Like the ruler mentioned in the example above, the system could care less at the far end, the lead screw will flex and not put up a fight that far out, but closer to the limit switch when it gets short is where everything needs to be truest.

I was (am) having issues with my X gantry falling down between prints and thought this may be the fix. It still falls though, so IDK what to try now. Its a very annoying issue though. :/

Dont buy if you need accuracy. I have two of these because I have two Z screws on my 3D printer. This component is meant to enhance the precision of the printer, but the machining of the component is clearly inconsistent. It allows for about .4mm of play in the Z axis when the entire point is for it to maintain a consistent Z value and allow for tolerance on the X and Y axis. The mounting screws-holes are also inconsistently placed, deviating by about .7mm, and making mounting doubius. The way this is mounted does not allow for correction by an anti backlash component. Dont buy this if your intention is increased accuracy.

Easy to upgrade from standard.

This was a well made and finished product, but the screw holes are 19mm apart and will not fit an Ender 3/Voxelab Aquila printer that require 18mm separation. The lead screw nut has less intrinsic slop than the OEM nut, and with the backlash set, has zero slop/backlash.