Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Gold

overkill... maybe... it works.. and looks good doing it.

easy to work with and good looking. fully functional. I bought them because the price was right.

I dont like terminal cups because they compromise the structural integrity of the box. However with this method you end up with terminals that are not flush with the box wall. In my opinion, especially with car stereos, its important to be able to save space, and having a terminal post sticking out 3/4 anywhere is not ideal. I thought I had out smarted the two downfalls. My plan was to fortify the box wall in a small area on the INSIDE of the box so that it was 1.5 thick instead of .75. I did this by cutting a 2 by 2.5 inch piece of mdf and holding it in place inside the box while drilling from the outside. Wood glue and the terminal nuts do the rest. I drilled through both layers of MDF with 1/4 inch drill bit and then widened the hole on the outside wall to a 1/2 inch hole about .65 inches deep so that the whole post could be recessed into the speaker box flush. Im using banana plug connectors so I dont need access to the knuckle nut terminal part. I did manage to make a happy ending, but I ran into some problems. With my install I had 3 problems. 1. You need 3 drill bits. 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, and 9/16 inch. I only had the first 2. 2. Glue seeped into the inside of the terminal causing me hours of clean up. 3. The knuckle nut tighteners got scuffed up tapping the terminals in place with a hammer. The first problem was that 1/2 inch will only recess to the knuckle nut. You need a 9/16 inch bit preferably to widen it a 3rd time for the last 1/4 inch of recess. I didnt happen to have one handy and I actually liked the look of it with the terminals sticking out only a 1/4 inch. Im using 90 degree banana plugs so the clearance was good enough for my purposes. I think I might like it better with the initial plan, but I wanted to finish the project that night and no stores were open. . You can make it flush with this product, but you need to double up the wall where the terminals go through, and you need a 1/4, 1/2, and 9/16 inch drill bit. You also need to be careful how deep you go with each. The second problem was unexpected. I dont know about you, but It seems intuitive to me to want to try to use some product to seal the hole during install. I used wood glue. Now if you drilled perfectly you might be able to get a seal without product, but I wouldnt risk it. So I lathered my posts in wood glue before I installed them in the hole. I thought everything was fine until i realized that the glue was pushed into the banana plug terminals filling them up! Basically some pressure was created upon insertion and the glue slipped into the inside of the terminal between the bottom of the knuckle nut and the terminal post. It took me an hour to get it out using toothpicks, paper towels and needles! So when I went to install the second terminal I made sure to tighten down the knuckle nut supper tight to try to prevent this. It didnt work. There needs to be an o ring between the knuckle nut and the rest of the post to seal it when the nut is locked down. Keeping in mind, this only happens when you are trying to recess the hole post, and when using wood glue. If you are fine with terminals sticking out 3/4 inch then this doesnt apply to you. Problem 3 happened because the knuckle nut tighteners are plastic with gold paint. The rest of the terminal is solid material but you do have to tap them into place with a hammer because of the furrowed part of the shaft. The plastic knuckle nut was slightly ruffed up and I had some paint chipping from the process. I avoided this on terminal 2, 3, and 4 by using a paper towel between the post and the hammer while tapping them into position, or you could use a rubber mallet. To be fair, Im doing a custom install probably not considered by the engineers of this product. Most people probably dont recess the post past the screw down speaker wire hole. Im using banana plugs so I dont care about that part. I wasnt able to find anything that included the banana connector part and not the knuckle connector. Even though this product is not perfect for the job and the way I did it, I was able to get a clean install eventually. If you like the way I installed them, I recommend some o rings or perhaps just put some silicon on the bottom of the knuckle nut before you screw it down and then let it dry over night before you install the whole post with wood glue. I plan to buy two more for my other sub and Ill let you know how it works the second go around.

These terminals are way worth it

Pretty solid connector. For those wondering about the size wire that can be accepted, the picture shows a 10 gauge wire taken from Rockford Fosgates RFK-10 amplifier wiring kit. I am sure it can handle 8 gauge wire if put to the test. The tiny black stopper piece was also an addition from the RFK-10 kit to be used as a bushing if I feel like it.

The Dayton product is great. The description and the answers to questions on quantity are miss leading. These are always sold as a pair, 1 red & 1 black in the package. At this price and description I was expecting 2 packages and only received 1.

Used on a custom sub box build. Great improvement over inferior plastic terminals. Be sure to factor in the length of terminal ends when building enclosures and mounting the terminals.

Long enough for 1-inch MDF panels.

Add a professional look and connectability to your home made cabinet.

Very solid connections for subwoofer box