Welacer DTF Ink Premium 6x100ml Heat Transfer Ink Conversion Kit Refill for Epson L1800, R2400, L800, 1430, P400,P800,R2000,XP-15000 All DTF Printers,for DTF Film(White Cyan Magenta Yellow Black)

This paper is amazing I haven’t had a problem with it. Ink comes completely off. Super fast delivery. I have order maybe 10 times even the A3 size and won’t be changing this paper at all.

Awsome product this the only brand I purchase it never let me down with the beautiful colors it produces with of course my great dye ink so the combination is like 2 peas in a pot together

This product works, but I have to apply it as soon as it prints because once the ink dries to a certain point this no longer sticks well. It could be a combination of the sublimation paper and ink that I use as well as this product. It works perfectly as long as I apply it right away. I would buy again

Does a great job

Really good quality

The product will most likely produce the best quality with a DTF printer, but they are extremely expensive for the amount of fabric printing I do. I tested using an Epson Sublimation printer and after perfecting the temperature and pressing time, I was super happy with the results. So, contrary to manufactures statement, which reads, Must use with DTF ink. Regular ink, sublimation ink can not be used, with the same brand DTF transfer film, DTF ink and hot melt powder, the transfer effect is more perfect. While that may be true, for a more perfect transfer, I disagree entirely that sublimation ink can not be used. YES! Sublimation ink can be used. :-) What did I use: Epson SureColor F170 sublimation printer with genuine Epson Sublimation inks WELACER DTF Transfer Film Sheets Godora Transfer Powder (DTF White Powder Hot Melt Adhesive) - You can not skip this step! VEVOR Heat Press (12 x15) Tips: PRINTING ON THE TRANSFER SHEETS: This slowed down the process but made it fool-proof 100% of the time. These sheets are very thin. Putting a single (or multiple sheets) in the printer tray caused a misfeed, and printing started midway down the sheet which ruined that sheet. When that happened, I didnt want to ruin any more sheets, so I taped the top of the sheet to copier paper (glossy side of transfer sheet against the paper so it prints on the dull side of the sheet). I used only a sliver of tape (about 3/8 in length) on the top left and top right. I place only one set of taped sheets at a time in the tray. It fed perfectly each time. I prepared all sheets with the copy paper so it was ready to use when I needed it) APPLYING THE HOT MELT POWDER: Immediately after printing, carefully and quickly remove the copy paper, lay the transfer sheet on a flat surface (I use a 3 deep 11 x 14 bin), shake the transfer powder over the entire printed area, fully covering it. Let it rest on top for a few seconds; at least 15. Grab the sides of the sheet firmly, lift the sheet and curl the sheet, allowing the powder to roll from side to side, top to bottom over the printed image; dont agitate, you might smear the printed image. Slide all excess powder off the sheet and into the bin. Holding the sheet firmly along the edges, Gently tap the edge of the sheet inside the bin to release remaining excess powder. Visually examine the sheet. If you see excess powder on the non printed areas, gently tap again. CURING THE POWDER before the transfer: The powder needs to set. There are special ovens for this, but you dont need the additional expense. I use the heat press, about an inch away from the platen, and place the transfer sheet (of course, powder side up) and leave it under there (380 degress) for 3 minutes. PLEASE TEST YOUR OWN SETTINGS! During these 3 minutes, I empty the bin of the powder, into a small plastic container so I can re-use it. I see people (on DIY videos), emptying it back into the original container. Why? You might end up mixing unwanted particles with the unused powder. In a small container you can see and remove any unwanted particles. But, thats just me. TRANSFER IMAGE ONTO SUBSTRATE: I highly recommend you sacrifice an actual garment that you plan to transfer onto, and test small areas at a time, multiple times on the test garment until you find the best temperature and timing. For my equipment, 380 degrees, at slightly more than medium pressure for 40 seconds yielded the very best results. Always press the garment first for about 6 seconds to remove wrinkles and moisture. Even though the powder has been baked, it can still be damaged if touched. So, eyeball the placement carefully before placing the transfer sheet onto the garment. It can be very slightly nudged if you need to reposition it, but I would not recommend it. REMOVING THE TRANSFER SHEET. Welacer states that the transfer can be removed while it is still hot (or cold). This may be true for DTF inks, but I found that for sublimation inks, WAIT until it is fully cooled off. Removing warm tugs at the fabric and takes a bit of effort to remove. It generally doesnt damage the image, but it will pull on the fabric and can nick off part of the image. When fully cool, it lifts off effortlessly, and no tugging at the garment. Important to note about this Seller: This is my second order of this product. I needed more sheets to finish a job and was thrilled that they were offering a nice discount this time around. Unfortunately, the discount was most likely offered because ALL OF SHEETS had fingerprint marks along two of the edges. Luckily, it did not interfere with print area, but, I am extremely disappointed. I would rather have paid full price if I thought the discounted product would be defective. The worst part: They inserted the sheets INCORRECTLY into the cellophane wrapper. Theres a sticker on the wrapper that states Print Side. The print side is dull and the non-print side is shinny. However, the difference between the 2 is very slight, so you have to view it at an angle to make sure. Well, these were inserted wrong. Had I NOT already worked with my first order (which was packaged correctly) I would have ruined a sheet or two. This would have been disastrous for a first-time user. There are other DTF Transfer sheets out there... I will try others before I trust this vendor again.

I used this in a Sawgrass SG500. The product itself is really good. However, this product did not come in the packaging that is shown. Also, I have noticed that many of the sheets are different sizes. I have had to trim a few pieces because the sizing is off. It is a great price for the quality and quantity that you get.

These sheets do what theyre supposed to. But the sheets are obviously cut to size. Each sheet is a different size and uneven

I bought the Welacer brand powder and DTF film to try with sublimation ink. I watched a multitude of videos and started testing. Most importantly, you can not follow the powder or film instructions. The preparation part of instructions don’t match up and they don’t work. The instructions say to melt the powder around 270-305 degrees. This did absolutely nothing. I moved on to testing what temperature works. To melt the powder on the film, I found the best end product results were achieved as follows: my printer was set for plain white paper, standard quality and I did end up using bi-directional printing, which adds more ink. You must practice with your printer. I was able to melt the powder evenly at an average of 350 degrees, but it took 5-6 minutes. I applied the transfer to fabric at 320 degrees and 15 seconds. I did a Luke warm peel. So, with that being said. You must plan on using up some film and powder to make it work for you. I found higher melt temperatures even at shorter times ended up with blotchy rubbery results. 1st photo is best results. It feels fantastic on the fabric. The second photo showed one of the better fails. Some of the fails were terribly blotchy.

I havent had a clogged printer head since using this ink 100% buying again! The company needs to offer more sizes