













5 inch HSS BI Metal Hole Saw Cutter 1-1/2 Depth with Big Arbor for Wood Metal
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G. A. P.
> 24 hourImpressed with the weight and sturdiness of this hole cutter and especially the arbor. The center of the arbor screws on and then two pins extend for steady and secure grip. So far I have used it to cut 3/4 MDF and it zipped right through it. I was surprised how smoothly it cut. Good value for the money.
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Richard B. Clark Jr.
> 24 hourNeeded this to install fans in a partition wall in an electrical enclosure. I usually buy carbide toothed saws. But this worked splendidly. Cut through two plates at once multiple times. And it never overheated and remains sharp.
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Pimpalicious Dicky M.
> 24 hourArrived on schedule. Good quality, cut 4 hole in 1 /2 plywood. Came with the arbor, 2 center bits, a bonus smaller hole saw and a small tape measure. If I needed to use a hole saw every day, I buy a Lennox or Diablo. This is perfect for the few times Ill need to use it.
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Jesse
> 24 hourIf you want to cut a hole for a 4” exhaust pipe, then you’ll be wanting a hole slightly bigger than 4”. This will cut that hole, probably. On my house it cut through cement fiber board (Hardie Board) and wood sheathing. You’ll need something different If you’re going through concrete (perhaps obviously). I was pleased with the weight and apparent hardness of the blade. I only had to cut a single vent hole, so I can not speak to long term durability. Here’s a tip if you’re putting in a vent and you’ve not done something like this before: drill a small pilot hole where you want the big hole to be. In my case, I went into the attic and drilled a small hole through the wall where I wanted to vent out. This way I could be sure to cut the hole where I wanted and be confident I wasn’t going to hit a stud, wiring, or some other sort of surprise. Then, make the big cut from the outside so that you get a nice clean edge in your siding. Good luck!
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John Mac
> 24 hourThe description included a 1 1/8 saw as well for the price. I only received the 4 1/14 inch saw.
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Whattsamattau
> 24 hourInexpensive compared to name brands but worked perfectly for me cutting a half dozen holes through 2 layers of wood (3/4 incl solid cedar plank backed by 3/4 inch plywood sheeting) still looks knew. Needs 1/2 drill for power. As another reviewer pointed out, use an auxiliary drill handle. Hole saws can bind (did it twice) and the drill torque can seriously strain or otherwise damage your wrist. But saw cut clean holes every time
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john w.
> 24 hourI bought this cheap 5 holesaw to cut through a 1 thick piece of steel. Not just any steel, it is 4140- a chromium molybdenum manganese alloy. But wait- not just any 4140, it is hardened 4140, 32 on the rockwell C scale. A lot of 4140 is sold in the annealed state for easier cutting, but then needs to be hardened afterwards to gain the strength benefits of this alloy. I verified the 32Rc myself, cause I believe it matters for what Im making. Anyway, this holesaw cuts it fine. I ran it at about 70 rpm, a little faster than 1 rotation per second. A little less than 100 fpm linear speed. Using a pecking motion, lubrication, allowing chips to clear. Many drill presses and most hand drills just wont go that slow. If you put this in a hand drill and think youre gonna cut even a piece of sheet metal, its going to be hard to control, and if you spin it fast (like the 600 rpm speed that seems slow in your 1/2 drill) you could probably dull this in seconds. That is just the nature of a large diameter cutter like this. If you overspeed it in metal, you WILL ruin it, in seconds. This saw isnt magic metal, and neither is one that costs 3 times as much. This was used in a milling machine..it is rigid, and can go slow. If used to cut a hole in your ceiling for a lamp, you could get away with a lot, none of this applies. The saw wasnt real round...I checked it and improved it a little by hitting with a hammer, checking, hitting, etc. BUT- more expensive brands are no better at all, they are always pretty out of round..unfortunate, but good enough. Tight quality control costs a lot. You want a $150 hole saw thats somewhat better? Ill deal with a cheap one, myself. It is a roughing tool, no more. It pains me to see most drills and holesaws oversped by users who then dull it and blame the tool!
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Catherine Tracy
> 24 hourWe got this to help us make corn hole boards. Makes quick work of it! Just attached to a typical cordless drill and went for it. Worked for us!
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AncientGeek
> 24 hourThis is a well made 8 1/4” hole saw, very rugged. Overall. I’d say it works very well. I’m glad I bought it and it worked well for me recently. There are a couple of things to watch out for. First, be sure the drill bit is deeply seated before tightening the set screw. I made the mistake of screwing the set screw right into the center of the shaft. It was no fun to get back out, but I was able to do it. The second thing to remember is that an 8.25” hole saw is big. There are 25.9” of teeth spinning around…and grabbing the surface of the material you are trying to bore through. My drill spun around pretty abruptly when all of the teeth contacted the surface. My second two uses were much more civilized
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Mike
> 24 hourI used this on a laminated veneer shiplap ceiling where I was making the cuts where the boards butted up to each other. The boards were about 5/8” thick. No issues. You eat a lot of dust but the cuts were perfect and smooth. The 6-3/8” hole was perfect for Torch Light ultra thin recessed lights.