5 inch HSS BI Metal Hole Saw Cutter 1-1/2 Depth with Big Arbor for Wood Metal

If you want to cut a hole for a 4” exhaust pipe, then you’ll be wanting a hole slightly bigger than 4”. This will cut that hole, probably. On my house it cut through cement fiber board (Hardie Board) and wood sheathing. You’ll need something different If you’re going through concrete (perhaps obviously). I was pleased with the weight and apparent hardness of the blade. I only had to cut a single vent hole, so I can not speak to long term durability. Here’s a tip if you’re putting in a vent and you’ve not done something like this before: drill a small pilot hole where you want the big hole to be. In my case, I went into the attic and drilled a small hole through the wall where I wanted to vent out. This way I could be sure to cut the hole where I wanted and be confident I wasn’t going to hit a stud, wiring, or some other sort of surprise. Then, make the big cut from the outside so that you get a nice clean edge in your siding. Good luck!

Its actually very hard to find a whole saw that is bigger than 7in in the market. This hole saw not only gives me the capacity of drill big hole at one shot, also generates surprisingly clean edges. I think this is probably due to the sharp teeth and high quality steel that this saw has. A strong buy!

Worked great for 5” Halo Old Work Can lights.

Pleased with the quality of the item. The threaded/pin-type arbor is essentially identical to those Ive purchased from Morse, Lennox, Milwaukee etc. They all have threads that do not run all the way to the back plate which means that when you screw the arbor down to contact the back of the hole saw, few threads are left engaging with the hole saw. If the pins back out due to vibration etc, it is easy to strip the threads. I wish the manufacturers would figure out how to thread the arbor all the way down to the back plate. I put a thin fiber washer with holes drilled out for the pins on first, screw down the arbor and then twist a rubber band around the hexagonal shaft and knurled pin adjusting knob to keep everything in place...

I bought this to put the hole in cornhole board. It cut through great. Glad I had a big drill with side handle to keep it level and from hurting my wrist though.

The description included a 1 1/8 saw as well for the price. I only received the 4 1/14 inch saw.

This is a well made 8 1/4” hole saw, very rugged. Overall. I’d say it works very well. I’m glad I bought it and it worked well for me recently. There are a couple of things to watch out for. First, be sure the drill bit is deeply seated before tightening the set screw. I made the mistake of screwing the set screw right into the center of the shaft. It was no fun to get back out, but I was able to do it. The second thing to remember is that an 8.25” hole saw is big. There are 25.9” of teeth spinning around…and grabbing the surface of the material you are trying to bore through. My drill spun around pretty abruptly when all of the teeth contacted the surface. My second two uses were much more civilized

Worked well, used for installation of 4 recessed lights. Seems pretty well constructed.

I bought this cheap 5 holesaw to cut through a 1 thick piece of steel. Not just any steel, it is 4140- a chromium molybdenum manganese alloy. But wait- not just any 4140, it is hardened 4140, 32 on the rockwell C scale. A lot of 4140 is sold in the annealed state for easier cutting, but then needs to be hardened afterwards to gain the strength benefits of this alloy. I verified the 32Rc myself, cause I believe it matters for what Im making. Anyway, this holesaw cuts it fine. I ran it at about 70 rpm, a little faster than 1 rotation per second. A little less than 100 fpm linear speed. Using a pecking motion, lubrication, allowing chips to clear. Many drill presses and most hand drills just wont go that slow. If you put this in a hand drill and think youre gonna cut even a piece of sheet metal, its going to be hard to control, and if you spin it fast (like the 600 rpm speed that seems slow in your 1/2 drill) you could probably dull this in seconds. That is just the nature of a large diameter cutter like this. If you overspeed it in metal, you WILL ruin it, in seconds. This saw isnt magic metal, and neither is one that costs 3 times as much. This was used in a milling machine..it is rigid, and can go slow. If used to cut a hole in your ceiling for a lamp, you could get away with a lot, none of this applies. The saw wasnt real round...I checked it and improved it a little by hitting with a hammer, checking, hitting, etc. BUT- more expensive brands are no better at all, they are always pretty out of round..unfortunate, but good enough. Tight quality control costs a lot. You want a $150 hole saw thats somewhat better? Ill deal with a cheap one, myself. It is a roughing tool, no more. It pains me to see most drills and holesaws oversped by users who then dull it and blame the tool!

I like the price because it includes the two hole saw but I prefer the ones with a quick release the measure tape is super basic, but definitely it’s worthy the package, definitely not to be used on plaster I use it a couple times on plaster walls but it takes the sharpness from the saw.