Jacquard Cyanotype Sensitizer Set

I like this set, however I find it difficult to get the solution used up in a timely fashion and plan to get the powder in bulk next time. Would be great if you know you are going toake a big bunch of prints in 4 weeks or less!

Worked just as described. Easy to mix solutions and it says the shelf life is long for them. Combine only the amount you will use for brushing on the paper. I mixed about 4 Tbsp of each solution together and was able to get around 10-12 9x12 papers coated. Used watercolor paper and pressed flowers. Lots of fun to do with the family while on vacation.

Works very well and is easy to use. The bottles contain the chemicals in powder form, to which you need to add water. That can be a little tricky since the bottles are opaque. Be careful not to overfill. You need to shake up the bottles and let them sit for a day or so so completely dissolve (according to instructions). They say the chemicals are pretty safe, but I used rubber gloves and Im sure theyd stain if you got any on you. I used watercolor paper and a wide soft brush. The paper was pretty absorbent, so it was not easy to get even coverage. I found that making long, fast strokes worked best to keep chemical from soaking in unevenly. A harder surface paper might be better. No idea how it would work on fabric. I poured a tablespoon of each chemical into a dish, which was enough to coat 8 sheets of 8 x 11 paper. They say this kit will make around 65 8 x 10 prints and I would guess youd get at least that if not more. I used transparency film negatives printed on my laser printer, but for really solid white areas on the print I think Ill be using a commercial copy shop to make the negatives. (You can also use a sharpie to draw directly on film, but remember that what you draw will be white on a cyan background.) I made a sandwich of my negative and paper between two sheets of picture glass, held together with small binder clips. Be sure to coat and store your unexposed paper and assemble your print frame in a darkened room . It seems more sensitive to ambient light than I expected. I tried various exposure times and found 5 minutes on a sunny day to be more than adequate. Adding just a cap full or less of hydrogen peroxide to the rinse water makes it develop its deep blue color almost instantly. Be sure to rinse the prints thoroughly. Any residual chemical will continue to darken.

I really like how simple it is to mix and apply the cyanotype solution. It worked well on paper and fabric. Im very happy with the results.

Works great! I taught an art class on cyanotypes and had so much product left over, I’ve been using it for creative gifts

This is an economical way to make a number of cyanotypes. It is easy to use and results in beautiful dark blue and white prints. I made my prints on fabric. The steps are the same as printing on paper. Mix equal amounts of the chemicals, paint onto your fabric (or paper), let dry in a dark place. Place leaves, flowers, feathers, lace - just about anything - on the treated fabric, cover with glass and place in the sun. The color of the fabric didnt change with the sun which was a little confusing to me since I had read that it would turn bronze. But as soon as I rinsed it and added a bit of peroxide, the intense blue appeared. My first attempts were keepers!

I used this for class. The instructions were fine and worked.

Worked great!

After following the normal protocol for mixing the product is very dark green and hardly any blue once the process is completed. This typically means the chemicals are contaminated. It should dry to a more bronze/brown color and once developed there should be nice rich blue pigment left. Unfortunately that is not the case here. Which is a bummer because I was really hoping this brand would be my go too. I guess Ill continue my search.

I have done several different cyanotypes kits and this one seems to do the best job for the best price. And It came faster then expected. Very happy