Kasa Smart Plug KP200, In-Wall Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, ETL Certified , White, 1 Pack

Look, I have a TON of Kasa stuff in my house. Switches, dimmers, three-way dimmers, strip lights, smart power strips. Seriously, maybe everything except cameras, because I have an entire hardwired CCTV system in the house. I like Kasa, and I really want to like these. They were easy to install (as long as you understand electrical, dont hurt yourself people!) And I know the trick to connect them even if the app doesnt detect them. They are a little bulky, but it you can handle working them up you can make them fit in the box just fine, Im sure. ...BUT... I use HA, and thats one of the reasons I chose Kasa. AND when I bought these outlets, I was under the impression that they did power monitoring. Now theyre installed and configured in all the systems, and I learn that they actually do not have energy monitoring capability. Disappointing. And I dont understand why that feature wouldnt be included on these. Seems like a basic feature, especially since its included in all the wall wart style smart plugs I have, most of which are also from Kasa? TPLink, if this can be added by software update, that would be great, as it really just seems like a basic feature that should have been provided.

Happy I saved a couple of $ purchasing a used one all good. The box was damages as described, but the screws and wire nuts were missing. Not a big deal because I just re used the screws from the existing switch and the existing wires already were nutted. I like saving a little dough :) I just was not expecting to have missing parts so 4 star instead of 5.

3 nice things about this dimmer: 1. Allows for local control, meaning that you can control it with Home Assistant. 2. You can turn off the backlight (in case you are using it in a bedroom and dont want the wall switch lighting up the room. 3. If you need to reboot the light for some reason, you can push the bottom right small button One SUPER annoying thing about KASA devices: They now FORCE you to create a cloud account just to connect these to your wifi. I absolutely detest this practice. Once I connected the light, I blocked all internet access to these (and every smart IOT device in my house) using my OpenWRT router. Overall recommended. I have many of these devices for the reasons listed above.

Does not see any tuya devices or use smart life app. Gave my wifi network credentials to another cloud server to get this to work. Fits in single gang box. Strange extra cover parts. Terminal screws short and must be removed with washer to wire up, a bit of extra work to put in Little clearance on the sides, but ok in the rear. Ground screw long enough. Only duplex smart outlet I found that has independent smart control on upper and lower sockets. Using to control a couple of items for a pond day and night. App knows sunset and sunrise, but not any other weather conditions, like rain, when I dont need the fountain pump on. Wanted a tuya devices like this because I have a bunch of those lights and sensors that are reliable iot with other apps

I have multiple standard Kasa smart switches in my home and decided to give the dimmer switch a try. Based on the other installs I figured this would be easy. However, the switch box is much larger than the standard switch to the point where it’s difficult to install in a crowded electrical box. I had a very difficult time cramming this into the electrical box because of the size. I’m not sure why it needs to be so much bulkier compared to the other switch. Besides from that, once I was able to complete the install, the switch works great. Unless you’re specifically looking for dimming capabilities, I would just stick to the standard Kasa smart switch.

I rejected this TP-Link dimmer to begin with because it was too cheap and I didnt recognize the name. Of course it cant work as well as the $100 name-brand Lutron dimmer! Well, the Lutron dimmer couldnt do a stupid simple task, remembering the last used brightness setting and restoring that setting the next time you hit the switch to On. (With the Lutron dimmer their Pico handheld remote (included in that $100 kit) did have a favorite setting/button, but, who walks around with yet another separate remote (or hauls out their phone) to turn on a light when walking into a room? I just want to hit the wall switch like I have done for nearly 70 years! (God, did I just write that? How did I get that old???) I ordered this TP-Link dimmer (for less than 1/5th the cost of the Lutron), received it the next day, yanked out the Lutron dimmer, replaced it with this dimmer, adjusted the brightness, buttoned everything back up, tapped the switch to off, waited a couple of seconds, tapped the switch on, and, voila, the lights went back to the previously set brightness setting. Thank you, TP-Link. Great product! (Oh, and the TP-Link app is easier to use and their product line is far more extensive (and, again, far less expensive!))

Great app – no adds. Very easy to use. Lot’s of settings. However, I noticed that sometimes the schedule time does not work. For example, the light needs to be off at 8pm, but for some reason its still on at 9pm... I hope they’ll fix this bug

We built a new home (3100 sq ft) and every switch in the house is Kasa and we have absolutely no regrets. In our previous home we used a few z-wave switches and paired them to a wink hub. This overall was pretty good but it wasnt good enough that I wanted to do the whole new house in them so I went looking for another solution/path. I ordered a few different switches. paired them up with our google home and ultimately ended up with Kasa as our choice and ordered 70+ switches (this included some dimmers, some not, as well as their 3 way kits). We got them all installed, paired up and just like in my previous test, every last one of them worked flawless. Below are a list of positives: -- DIMMER SETTING - The dimmers have a awesome feature where you can set the lowest level of dimming so that if your bulbs pulsate or anything you can get rid of that. -- Operation speed - no matter if controlling via the actuall switch or throug google home the speed is instantaneous. This is one things that blew my mind as our previous z-wave/wink hub combo would often take a few trys and/or take a second to actually turn on. -- The Kasa App - There are a few other products in our home that are not TP-Link brand and while they work fine, the applications that you have to configure the device in and/or the application that you pair up with Google Home seem like an afterthought. The Kasa app is a solid piece of software that literally has worked flawlessly as we paired all of our switches. The Negatives (dont let these sway you to not buy but...) -- the size of the switch. If you have a ton of wires and or a super shallow box in the wall it may not work or you may have problems pushing it in. I noted the size of the switches to the builder but it unfortunately didnt make it to our electrician and they used standard sized boxes. The switches all ultimately fit but some of them took some work. (BTW.. this is a universal problem amongst all smart switches. -- REALLY NIT PICKY --the switches come with a beautiful screwless plate however if you have a multi gang box (multiple switches in the same box) then you will need to find another plate. We tried a few screwless designs and ultimately stuck with these plates but the switches dont fit perfectly flush with these plates. This is especially true if you have dimmer/non dimmer/3 way switches in the same box as all of those switches seem to have different thickness backing plates on the switch. Overall, these are awesome, work great and I would do it again in a heartbeat!!!

This switch is the right solution to a set of 6 bathroom lights that is way too bright, even with low-voltage LEDs. Bright is good for grooming, but bright is not good first thing in the morning or in the middle of the night. Putting in 6 dimmable bulbs was not a realistic solution, as they would have to be programmed individually then grouped in software. The Kasa Dimmer works perfectly on 6 LED lights. The dimming function is easy to use and provides full range from off to full-on bright. Installation is easy. You do need a neutral white wire but all houses since the 1970s have that. Determine if you need to buy a new faceplate. My installation was in a 3-ganged box and I could not find a faceplate for two rockers and one toggle, so I had to buy a cheap Leviton rocker (dumb switch) and replace the toggle so I could use a three-rocker faceplate. Buy a flexible faceplate (such as Enerlites) because it takes a little jiggling and cursing to get all the switches lined up perfectly and you do not want to crack the faceplate. The biggest downside to the Kasa dimmer is that when you touch it, it doesnt come on. It has to think for a couple of seconds, then it comes on gradually over half a second. If youre impatient and touch the switch again, you just turned it off. Ha-ha. This little game can go on for several cycles. When you walk into a room, you expect to touch a switch and get instant light. You do not expect to stop and stand in front of the switch to see if its going to work. This is a great annoyance, but ultimately a minor flaw. After a while you learn how to touch the Kasa switch just right so you have a 90% chance of success. It is, however a design flaw that makes the switch less than perfect. Integration with Alexa is seamless (once you link the accounts) and performance is rock-solid. Ive never had a Kasa product fail on me, and I have plenty of them in the house. Recommended.

I have over 50 smart WiFi devices connected to a Google Mesh home network. The 20+ TP-Link smart devices in the network perform without a technical hitch and are reliable. The Kasa/TP-Link (KP200) WiFi two-outlet, in-wall receptacle is no exception. IF it is installed properly (see below), the KP200 works well and is easy to install (neutral white wire required!!). WARNING FOR AMATEUR ELECTRICIANS (like me): I am NOT an electrician, however, Ive personally replaced most of the wall switches and receptacles in my home without a single issue. I have also replaced ceiling fans, light fixtures and bathroom exhaust fans -- also without any issues. So, I was very confident installing he KP200 would be another cakewalk. However, this time I got in a little over my head installing the KP200, and it required an EXPENSIVE visit by a licensed electrician to make things right again. I learned, here in Arizona (and probably other states too), the safety code requires ANY WALL RECEPTACLE (outlet) within 15 feet of running water (such as kitchen sink or bathroom sink/tub/shower) must be a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). This is also sometimes called a GFI outlet. My open concept kitchen area has eight wall receptacles (all with NO GFCI markings or the usual GFI test/reset buttons); therefore, I did not know they were GFCI. About 14 feet from my kitchen sink is a pantry -- which is far enough away from the kitchen sink not to worry about water splashing. The pantry has two above-counter wall receptacles (which I later learned are UNMARKED GFCI receptacles). So, when I replaced one of the UNMARKED GFCI outlets with the KP200, everything went to hell in a handbasket. The KP200 would not work properly, AND the other seven kitchen outlets were inoperable as well. In short (pun intended), the electrician said the KP200 is NOT a GFCI unit, and replacing the GFCI with the KP200 -- not only violated the states electrical code, but it was also created a substantial safety hazard by breaking the chain of protection provided by the eight outlets connected to the unmarked GFCI circuit. (Once I went to the outside electrical panel, it was visually obvious some of the breakers were GFCI, but inside the home, nothing indicates their GFCI status). Although the electrician has an excellent reputation for quality work, he is VERY OLD SCHOOL. As such, there are TWO THINGS he absolutely HATES: (1) ALL home automation smart devices (dont even mention the word - Alexa to him); (2) ANY weekend-warrior homeowner who is not a licensed electrician and does his own electrical work. That said, I not only received a very stern verbal admonishment regarding electrical safety, I also received an invoice for $150. (I think some of the $150 was punitive.) Expensive lesson learn. So, BEFORE you swap-out your old electrical outlet for a TP-LINK KP200, be CERTAIN it is NOT an UNMARKED CFCI receptacle. By the way, the next day, I installed the KP200 in a bedroom, and it works as expected! It is an excellent and reliable name-brand product! ONE LAST CAVEAT: I only purchase smart devices made by large, well-established technology companies, such as TP-Link. Why? Most Internet of Things (IOT) smart devices COMMUNICATE to the world outside your home in order to function. That means IOT devices are potentially the WEAKEST LINK in your home Internet/network security. In other words, you need to purchase IOT devices from companies that have the financial resources and technical expertise to update BOTH the firmware and software of their products -- as the product ages. This updating helps defend your home network against hackers who exploit cheap, no-name IOT device to gain access to the rest of your home network, computers, smartphones, tablets, and etc. I hope this helps.