Kasa Smart Plug KP200, In-Wall Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, ETL Certified , White, 1 Pack

I just started re-adding new smart items to my home and began with KASA because of the reviews. I had 2 of their color smart bulbs already and I enjoyed using my phone or Google Assistant and a timer schedule to turn them on off, dim, and change colors. But then, I wanted more... so I bought a few of these smart dimmer switches. (smart outlets, motions sensors, and cameras are next) These dimmer switches dont seem to mix well with the smart bulbs in my opinion, because they both register in the app separately with their own controls - so if the smart dimmer switch is off, you cant turn the bulb on through the app without turning the switch on first. Or... if you dim the smart bulb through the app then the smart dimmer switch gets out of sync. Its kind of weird. Im sure theres a way to make it happy, but with Google Home, I had to have both items separate if I wanted to use the dimmer switch and change the bulbs color. Anyway, I used regular dimmable LED bulbs with the KASA smart dimmer switches and they work awesome with the app or voice. And I like the little glowing light on the switch when the lights are out. Plus the time schedule feature and the ability to slowly dim and brighten the lights when you turn them on and off... really cool. And you can double-tap or hold the switch to fade out/fade in. I know smart stuff like this isnt anything new and exciting, I had all X10 smart outlets and switches with remote controls back in the 2000s, but that company was sketchy and disappeared after I spent several hundred dollars on smart things... It took me a long time to decide to start over again. I sure hope this company doesnt disappear after I spend a lot of money getting everything in my house automated with their products. :P

Once installed and app set up you are good to go. Lights can be turned on and off without messing up the timer schedule. Best part, NO NOISY TIMER tick ticking and humming all the time. Worth the investment. We also have the dimmer switch type too.

I was planning on replacing a dimmer switch in our master bathroom, but decided to get one of these Kasa smart dimmers since it was about the same price as a dumb dimmer switch. We already have Philips Hue bulbs in our master bedroom, as thats the only place we really want smart bulbs. We have no real need for a smart switch in our master bathroom, but figured Id give it a go due to the pricing. We would probably just use the actual switch for the bathroom lights, but maybe wed grow to appreciate some of its smart functions. Pros: - Cheap, especially when on sale or when a coupon is available. - Installation is easy. Configuration via app is also easy. - Lights can be controlled by a physical switch, by smart speaker, or by app. - Works with dimmable LED bulbs, which are much cheaper than smart bulbs. - Some functions can be customized in the Kasa app. For example, you can set it up so a long press will slowly dim the lights over 10 seconds until its off. Or double tap to turn on light instantly. Cons: - The switch takes a good second or so to respond which can be annoying. Press it to turn on, and you might start to walk away before realizing you didnt actually press the button all the way. - The dim/brighten buttons click loudly. - There are only seven preset brightness settings on the switch. This is where an analog dimmer wins. However, to be fair, you can adjust in 1% increments using the app, but I prefer not to have to use my phone for this. - Adjusting the brightness using the switch is slow if you need to dim or brighten significantly. A traditional analog dimmer wins here because the slider can be moved quickly. - If the dimmer setting is set too low before turning off the lights (below 25% in our case), the lights will not turn on. The lights do work at these dimmer settings, but only after setting them on at a higher brightness setting first. This is super annoying. We like to keep the dimmer setting set very low before going to bed so when we turn it on to go pee in the middle of the night, we are not blinded. Cant do it with this dimmer, as 25% is brighter than we like for this purpose. We have this dimmer set up to control two vanity sconces, each with two bulbs (four bulbs total). The bulbs we are using are the Philips LED Dimmable Warm Glow Effect. These bulbs are fantastic as they get warmer at dimmer settings, similar to incandescent bulbs. Plus they work great with a traditional analog dimmer. I may try to swap them out with different bulbs just to see if it addresses any of my Cons above. I also might take out the Kasa switch in favor of an analog one and return the Kasa if these issues continue to bother us. Update: The switch has lost the wi-fi connection several times in the last few months. Its not that hard to reconnect it to wi-fi, but its annoying. I am going to go back to an analog dimmer switch.

Updated - 3/1/23 - My issue was escalated with TP-Link (the parent company for Kasa, I believe) and the technical support team was amazing. Ultimately, it turned out to be a new issue with these newer switches. The team built a firmware update the next day and checked in with me via phone and email over the weekend to make sure it resolved my issue. The customer-focused support was incredible. They also said that they’ve gone back and coached the customer support team on how this case evolved to hopefully prevent recurrences in the future. With the new firmware update, my switches are 100% compatible with Apple HomeKit and I’m very happy. Original 3-star review: Beware — Switches work fine with Kasa app, but flicker on/off when turned on with HomeKit at 100% brightness. 95% and lower work fine with HomeKit. I have 3 of these switches controlling different lights in 3 different rooms, all with the same “feature”. I called Apple and they said to call Kasa. I called Kasa and they told me to contact Apple. What to do?

I have over 50 smart WiFi devices connected to a Google Mesh home network. The 20+ TP-Link smart devices in the network perform without a technical hitch and are reliable. The Kasa/TP-Link (KP200) WiFi two-outlet, in-wall receptacle is no exception. IF it is installed properly (see below), the KP200 works well and is easy to install (neutral white wire required!!). WARNING FOR AMATEUR ELECTRICIANS (like me): I am NOT an electrician, however, Ive personally replaced most of the wall switches and receptacles in my home without a single issue. I have also replaced ceiling fans, light fixtures and bathroom exhaust fans -- also without any issues. So, I was very confident installing he KP200 would be another cakewalk. However, this time I got in a little over my head installing the KP200, and it required an EXPENSIVE visit by a licensed electrician to make things right again. I learned, here in Arizona (and probably other states too), the safety code requires ANY WALL RECEPTACLE (outlet) within 15 feet of running water (such as kitchen sink or bathroom sink/tub/shower) must be a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). This is also sometimes called a GFI outlet. My open concept kitchen area has eight wall receptacles (all with NO GFCI markings or the usual GFI test/reset buttons); therefore, I did not know they were GFCI. About 14 feet from my kitchen sink is a pantry -- which is far enough away from the kitchen sink not to worry about water splashing. The pantry has two above-counter wall receptacles (which I later learned are UNMARKED GFCI receptacles). So, when I replaced one of the UNMARKED GFCI outlets with the KP200, everything went to hell in a handbasket. The KP200 would not work properly, AND the other seven kitchen outlets were inoperable as well. In short (pun intended), the electrician said the KP200 is NOT a GFCI unit, and replacing the GFCI with the KP200 -- not only violated the states electrical code, but it was also created a substantial safety hazard by breaking the chain of protection provided by the eight outlets connected to the unmarked GFCI circuit. (Once I went to the outside electrical panel, it was visually obvious some of the breakers were GFCI, but inside the home, nothing indicates their GFCI status). Although the electrician has an excellent reputation for quality work, he is VERY OLD SCHOOL. As such, there are TWO THINGS he absolutely HATES: (1) ALL home automation smart devices (dont even mention the word - Alexa to him); (2) ANY weekend-warrior homeowner who is not a licensed electrician and does his own electrical work. That said, I not only received a very stern verbal admonishment regarding electrical safety, I also received an invoice for $150. (I think some of the $150 was punitive.) Expensive lesson learn. So, BEFORE you swap-out your old electrical outlet for a TP-LINK KP200, be CERTAIN it is NOT an UNMARKED CFCI receptacle. By the way, the next day, I installed the KP200 in a bedroom, and it works as expected! It is an excellent and reliable name-brand product! ONE LAST CAVEAT: I only purchase smart devices made by large, well-established technology companies, such as TP-Link. Why? Most Internet of Things (IOT) smart devices COMMUNICATE to the world outside your home in order to function. That means IOT devices are potentially the WEAKEST LINK in your home Internet/network security. In other words, you need to purchase IOT devices from companies that have the financial resources and technical expertise to update BOTH the firmware and software of their products -- as the product ages. This updating helps defend your home network against hackers who exploit cheap, no-name IOT device to gain access to the rest of your home network, computers, smartphones, tablets, and etc. I hope this helps.

I love this smart switch. In general, I really like the Kasa wifi series smart home stuff. Their outlets are excellent, and this switch is too. I love that there is no hub required, and they simply work. I hate when Alexa starts acting like garbage, or cant connect to the internet, and everything relying on the Alexa hub stops function. ALL the Kasa stuff will still work as expected via the Kasa app. While the connectivity and smart functions are awesome, I also really like the feeling of the buttons on the switch. This replaced a Leviton smart switch that I hated. The buttons were stiff, and hard to press, and it required a z-wave hub (despite claiming Alexa compatibility on the box). The Kasa switch buttons are soft touch, and responsive the way it should be.

3 nice things about this dimmer: 1. Allows for local control, meaning that you can control it with Home Assistant. 2. You can turn off the backlight (in case you are using it in a bedroom and dont want the wall switch lighting up the room. 3. If you need to reboot the light for some reason, you can push the bottom right small button One SUPER annoying thing about KASA devices: They now FORCE you to create a cloud account just to connect these to your wifi. I absolutely detest this practice. Once I connected the light, I blocked all internet access to these (and every smart IOT device in my house) using my OpenWRT router. Overall recommended. I have many of these devices for the reasons listed above.

This worked as expected. It was bought to be able to have more control on the lighting when away for security. If youre away on a trip, you can create a profile on the app and control the light turn on/off times, and brightness levels What I like about it is that it is capable of being programmed via the app. The app has improved over the years. Note Ive had the Kasa Smart brand for my wall outlet plugs and have 0 issues with it. My porch light has a one as well which works good. What I dont like is the feel.. Im so use for up to on, and down to be off. This switch (and other Kasa switches) have a single down press. I just wish they could have made the whole thing as a push button so it doent feel weird needing to push down when turning on the lights. What I really dont like is the blinking of the lights when you set it to full power by pressing the button. Im guessing that blink it to say it is at full power.. but it is annoying.. Blink the switch led.. not the main light. Dimmer features are much more course than an analog switch, but it is good enough. Interesting thing about this switch for brightness is that you can set what you consider 100% lighting so it never goes over that. I havent tested this feature but I found it interesting they gave this feature. Installing the switch was not difficult, but be sure to read the instructions and review instructions on how light switches are to be installed. It can get confusing sometimes. Synching the switch to the network and to the phone was easy. Since it was a first time install, it was blinking, which indicates that it is ready to be synchronized/connected. I didnt look on this switch, but my other Kasa switch had a resynch button in case you need to resynch it, so look in your instructions if you need to do this. Synching just required that I turn on my app and go through the motion of adding a new device. It steps you through the process. Within the app you can control the brightness, On/Off, turn off timer, and schedule/program the on/off times. One thing I really liked about the Kasa was the capability of scheduling it to turn on at sunset and turn off on sunrise as a setting. This means I dont need to look up when the sunrises or sets. I know this is suppose to be able to integrate with Alexa and Google, but I havent test this feature.

They work great, but sometimes theyre a bit glitchy and wont turn on/off when pressed. All in all theyre great to have, the KASA app works mostly ok, their latest redesign was odd and made all my devices disappear but after a few reboots they came back.... It still needs work but works mostly ok

Installing the wires and switch was easy but the app and apple homekit made setup a bit flaky. you MUST be sure to select the correct type of smart dinner device from the list in the app, further down is the apple homekit version of smart dimmer thst i didnt see at 1st. had to call Kasa support where Nelsie helped me locate the right wifi setup screen and use homekit to add the device using a special barcode which is not on the device but Is Found on the inside of the top lid on the product box. Once we identified the right switch model and found the homekit code it finally went together. tech support was very patient while we sorted things out. once we got it running the device responds to alexa and homekit for dimming and Off and On as we hoped it would.