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Charles Ford
Greater than one weekJust got an SLA printer last week so I’m very new to this. I’ve been using an FDM printer for 2-3 years though so I’m no stranger to the general process. The other resin I have is the Anycubic grey standard resin. I mostly print minis for tabletop games. The grey resin CAN produce really impressive minis however it’s very brittle. I’m reading that there are multiple “flavors” of resin out there with different physical properties (as with the different types of FDM filaments). My first print with this translucent green resin was the dinosaur skull. Unfortunately, at some point the top half of the skull, the way cooler part, fell off the supports. I realize there are many possible contributing factors so I’m not really knocking the resin itself but that was disappointing. I’m also irritated when people talk about the “low odor” of these different resins. Both I’ve tried so far are extremely smelly. I leave a window open right next to my printer and it’s still pretty powerful. If you’re interested in SLA printing for minis you basically have to print a gelatinous cube with this stuff. Super excited for that. I’m also going to try the Anycubic plant based resin. I read that’s good for minis. Overall the green is good but admittedly I don’t have a huge pool of experience to compare to yet.
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Cristina bates
> 3 dayHaven’t had any problems since I finally have the perfect settings for it now so my prints come out perfect now
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Tom
> 3 dayI haven’t had to do anything but level the bed. The test print is perfect and the other items printed well.
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John A Medeiros
Greater than one weekUsed this resin to print 1/8 scale model motorcycle parts. Pieces turned out great and cleanup with alcohol is the most ideal method to use. Very happy with my purchase!
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Will
> 3 dayI’ve tried a few different resins and so far this is the best, high quality and doesn’t smell too strong. A nice balance.
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Ash Christians
> 3 dayNo trouble with my usual settings.
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Cruz Rodriguez
> 3 dayFirstly, Ive been using anycubic resin for over a year now and I love the quality of it! Its unfortunate that the last few bottles Ive received have been having some issues with these unknown fibers in them. These are really stringy and have messed up a few prints Ive made. Lastly, straining the resin does fix this issue and makes it just as smooth as before. I still highly recommend this resin as there are still so many good pros to using it.
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Rob L.
> 3 dayAll printed on a AnyCubic Photon S at either .05 layer height (9sec/layer) or .03 layer height (8sec/layer). This black resin captures the highest detail of any resin I have tried so far, but it comes at the cost of being one of the most brittle Ive tried. I can print my 1in square diamond plates in perfect detail and capture the leather wrapping on the handle of the sea elfs whip, so I know the level of detail is phenomenal, but since I sell miniatures, I cannot stand having them break so easily. For these miniatures, a simple drop from desk height has yielded broken parts, which to me, is unexceptionable. My remedy for that is to mix in a flexible resin, which adds much needed durability to these miniatures (orcs). When I added the flexible resin, it made the models translucent, creating a smoky black appearance, which is pretty cool. Another positive side affect of this mixtures is that nearly all of the detail was retained. When Ive mixed the flexible resin into others brands, I usually end up losing quite a bit more detail that I would like, but this black resin really helped with retaining the high detail I like to see. A lot of people care about odor, and this one isnt the worst our there, but it isnt the best. I do have ventilation to my printer, so I dont get lingering smells anyways. If you dont care about brittleness and what super high detail prints, than this is the way to go. If you are not afraid to mix in flexible resins, then this also is the way to go.
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Corey
> 3 dayIve used the translucent green, grey, and clear. The grey is by far my favorite, and Ive been able to get tolerances down to about 0.2-0.3 mm, which is way better than I expected for this printer and the cost of resin. Its not as good as ultra high end printers, but for the price, I havent seen better. With the green, I was able to print DnD minis with good detail. Ive used the grey for props and shop fixtures and hooks. They both retain great detail and are very strong. Im able to hang tools off 3-mm thick hooks without breaking. Ive used the clear for some parts, and it would be great for lenses or windows, but it does allow some UV light bleeding, so it doesnt work as well for complex geometry. Stick to simple parts for the clear, and use opaque resins like the grey for more detailed stuff. Ive been able to print with this resin indoors without significant odor. I keep the printer in a shop area, so its not in a confined space, but it hasnt needed a ton of ventilation. Instructions are a bit vague on exposure settings, so youll want to do some research online and experiment with each new resin color before going right into making a big part. Look up some guides on how to calculate cure rates, calculate exposure times based on layer thickness (I usually do 0.050 mm for big parts, 0.025 mm for mini figures), and how to check your edge bleed with go-nogo gauges. For the cost, good detail, and low odor, I highly recommend.
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Michael
> 3 daySo this is pretty much the only resin I have used at this point and Ive decided that I need to maybe try some others. That said this resin isnt bad but it has a strong smell. The resin itself seems to be pretty good though and does print pretty well as long as you make sure to store it properly.