DAP 00585 Latex 6oz, White All Purpose Plastic Wood Filler, 6 Oz

This product is runny, crumbly-lumpy, hard to work with, and doesn’t work well at all on vertical surfaces. I tried to use this to fix a small, minor scratch/dent in a bedroom door (furniture movers). I thought this sounded perfect: small problem, easy fix. BUT, it made the damage look MUCH worse than the original problem (I wish I’d taken a before picture). :-( It’s probably perfect for filling picture nail holes in walls (but so is Elmer’s glue). It’s crumbly and chalky when dry. Definitely needs a top-coat to seal it in (if you’re trying anything like fixing the minor dented door like I did). Cleans up easily with liquid dish soap and water. Overall, I can find easier, cheaper ways to cover picture nail holes that will look a lot better: Elmer’s glue and some talcum powder, done. My door? Sanding off this mess and fixing it a different way.

Used in a project to fill part of a hole in a piece of furniture on the sides of a small dowel. Very messy to work with. When all was finished this stuff took a long time to dry and then crumbled. Was not impressed.

Loved how easy this was to apply. I filled every crack and sealed every broken drawer in under twenty minutes. Far superior to the little buckets. Im hoping itll be more resistant to dehydration too, but only time will tell.

Dries fast. Easy cleanup. Not very elastomeric, but thats typical of wood-fill products, so I just apply two or three thin coats instead of one thick coat to avoid any cracking. Filled knots, cracks, scuffs in fence boards PERFECTLY, so I bought several more tubes for other projects.

The filler easily comes out of the tube in a good consistency for filling wood holes, cleans up easily, and dries hard. I wish it would come in a wider variety of colors.

Expensive for what it is. There are no color matching tools so you need to know exactly what you need. If you spill or misplace it, it is difficult to clean up. Acetone and toluene (70/30% v/v) was what I found most useful. It does get the job done though.

Works as desired.

I was unable to get a smooth finish with this product, no matter what I tried. I tried wetting my putty knife, but all that did, was make it worse. Seems to go from very soft to hard quickly, leaving little working time. Was easy to clean up, at least

I print a lot of props with FDM printers and hate: 1) layer lines and 2) sanding PLA. This takes care of both of those problems. I smear this on a print, then wait for it to dry and sand it down level to the very top of the layer lines. After priming and painting, youd never know the object was 3D printed and this stuff sands SO much more easily than PLA.

I had three stripped-out screw holes where my upper door hinge attaches to the door frame. Since there are only two hinges, the door was kind of flopping around loosely. This is the front door to my apartment, so its important that I keep it locked when I leave. And the only way I could lock it was by lifting the door by the door knob and pulling it shut so it could latch. I was going to inform my landlady, but she kind of freaks out whenever I call her with a problem -- so I decided to attempt to repair the stripped-out screw holes myself, and leave the poor lady alone. After reading some of the reviews for this wood filler, I decided to order it and give it a go. I received the product a couple of days ago. I decided to start with one screw hole -- just to see how it would work. So I splooged a fair amount of the wood filler inside the screw hole, pushed it in with a jewelers screwdriver, re-splooged some more in, and continued the process until I was certain Id really filled the hole up as much as possible. (Splooged is a scientific term; you can look it up!) I then let it set overnight, and attempted to screw the screw back into the hole. The entire endeavor proved fruitless. The screw went in real loose, and kept turning sloppily -- no grip whatsoever. Undaunted, I went back to Amazon, and proceeded to read some of the Q&As on this wood filler. One suggestion I read indicated that one might insert a toothpick or a wood sliver into the hole, along with the filler, and that might shore up the hole effectively. However, I had no toothpicks. But I did have an old pine board that wasnt doing anything in particular. I decided to kind of cut into the board and produce two good-sized slivers that were thick enough so that I could hammer them into place within the screw hole, after I applied more wood filler. Again, I let it set so it could harden. Before I attempted to screw the screw back into the reinforced hole, I decided to smear more wood filler all over the screws threads, just because. And who was gonna stop me?! No one, thats who! Finally, I began to carefully and slowly screw the screw back into the hole without re-drilling. Right away, I noticed a big difference. There was a lot more resistance present as I hand-tightened the screw with my handy dandy screw driver. When the screw was flush with the plate, I really reefed on it to see how tight I could get it. Success!!! I tightened the screw as much as was physically possible, and it appeared to hold beautifully. I followed suit with the other two screw holes, and was successful on both counts. Problem solved! I hope it holds. However, Im not certain how much the wood filler played a part in my repair job. I mean, it couldve just been the slivers of pine alone that did the trick. Or maybe it was the combination of the pine-sliver inserts and the wood filler that proved effective. Id like to think the latter is correct, because I sincerely wish to justify this purchase. So, thats the reason for the four-star review. Hope this helps! Thank you very much. Goodbye.