Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo

Missing the neck to use it...I took the jump on this but Im returning it and wont be coming back

The real deal. Works great. One of my favorite upgrades on my CR10 MAX. Has no problem printing at .6 layers

No issues

Was having issues with backflow from previous hot ends. I have not had that issue and have printed many long prints with much better surfaces. Would reccomend highly.

Used for Creality cr 10s pro. This is not an upgrade for the faint of heart. All said I am a newbie and I was able to get through it. I did have to talk to micro Swiss text support. I found out that the nozzle and hot end that you get with your original printer from creality has a non-standard thread. So when you go to micro Swiss, you go to when its considered in the industry has a standard thread on your nozzle and hotend. After talking to micro Swiss tech support, all was well.

Fitted to my CR-10S Pro and is better than the original equipment in my view. The heat break design in particular makes changing anything in the heating block much simpler. The nozzle that comes with it is great but coupled with a Micro Swiss MK8 Plated M2 Hardened High Speed Steel Nozzle this just cant be beat. If I get another CR-10S Pro then I will be changing out the hotend for this before I even print anything. Its that good.

I got this hot in so that I could print PETG. Works great. It’s great having a dependable hot end

Nice extruder needs so modifications to design to keep the grub screw from stripping. Need to tap the right or left side for a longer grub screw the same size to give more threads to bite on too, if you remove the grub screw a few time like 10 over the years the threads get wreckt. Also a longer grub screw to fully take advantage of the very small amount of threads would have also helped the problem, poor engineering. Excellent quality overall. Wouldnt suggest the price point till they redesign the extruder. That is the only problem Ive ever had with it.

So this hotend works like a charm!! Print quality is amazing right out of the box, just re-level bed, check e steps, calibrate PID and your off. BUT..... This is my second one... so the most important step is torqueing the heater block to the heat break and nozzle! I did not do this properly on my first one which resulted in it developing a leak due to the heat break coming loose and eventually when I tried to pull it apart to fix it, I broke it because I couldnt get the plastic out to tight it correctly.. So please make sure you tighten it properly from the start, both cold and heated. Otherwise you ll cost yourself $65 unnecessarily like I did.

This went on my CR10S Pro V2 and it worked exactly how youd expect. Virtually no difference with the stock one except I can safely print at higher temps now. I have another printer with the works. A bondtech e3d volcano setup as direct drive and prints great. I wanted something a little easier to setup this time. This filled the void with the CR10S Pro V2 Prints just fine and works nearly as well as the direct drive when your slicing parameters are correctly set. Was swapped over in less than 10 minutes. Its recommended you do a PID autotune, my values were slightly different than the stock hotend. Unless youre doing some really exotic stuff Id recommend this over going through the headache of swapping over to something a little better. If youre looking to go the works, look into an E3D Hemera. Its not cheap but about as good as it gets.