I thought this product would be in a canister as pictured but it comes in a bag. The powder works great, I used it with sublimation ink and cured it with a heat gun before applying to my shirt.

It has been a frustrating experience to do the sublimation DTF hack with Yamation film and powder - I went through about 25 sheets of film trying to get it to work (argh!). For anyone else frustrated with streaks/roller marks on their film, I found that I could change the print density by going to the Maintenance Tab (of my Epson SC-F100) and selecting Extended Settings. From there, I dragged the slider to the left so it was around -25%. This eliminated most streaking for me. If a design has a lot of black in it, maybe go even more negative with your number. If a design doesnt have much black at all, then go for a smaller negative number. I can get away with about -5% for an image with little to no black. Other things that might work for you are to choose the Rigid profile, or to choose Standard quality. But I use the Textile profile and high quality and then reduce the print density as described. I bake my powdered design at 385 degrees for 2 to 3 minutes on the bed of my HTVRont auto press. Obviously, I dont bring the press down, but just let it hover. Because it is a few inches above, it takes more than a minute. Because the sublimation ink has already been activated through this process, it isnt necessary to press the design at such a high temperature as you would with sublimation. After having conquered the problems with streaks, I then went about experimenting with pressing times, temps, and pressures. Following the recommendations on the package for temps and times did produce a nice result on the shirt, but the designs were degrading quickly upon washing. After a bunch of further experimentation, I found that I needed to do a higher temp and higher press time in order to have the design really adhere and last through washings. I think the success of this whole process really depends upon your equipment - basically your press and your printer and your ink. Be prepared for problems in figuring it out. Now that I HAVE figured it out for my setup, I do like the products and will continue to use them. But boy oh boy, was this a struggle to get it right! Note that for the Epson SC-F100, I do NOT need to apply the film to a piece of paper with tape, as others would tell you. It feeds right through my machine with no issues as is. If you have a different printer, your experience may be different. For anyone who has the HTVRont auto press trying to do this hack, put a pressing pillow beneath your garment to trick the press into applying more pressure. Also, for me, I need to press at 345 degrees for 45 seconds to get a good result and to get the design to last through washings. I do NOT do a second press with a teflon sheet on top as others recommend. This tends to remove ink and degrade the design in my experience. I find that after the first washing, the design feels more embedded into the fibers as it would if you did a second press anyway.

This is the only transfer powder I will use. I continue to reorder every time I run out.

Its the first powder adhesive I use for DTF, but I get perfect prints every time, even on small text elements. will buy again.

Everything came out special!!

This DTF powder works, and it works great on polyester shirts.

I dont use DTF powder traditionally for T-Shirts. I use it after laser engraving wood to give some of my projects a pop. This product works well filling the gaps and using a heat gun to cure. I cannot speak on the product for T-Shirts, but for my purpose this is top notch. Well worth the money.

I don’t know if I got a defective batch or what. But no matter what I do, the powder doesn’t cure and won’t press onto a shirt.

Great dtf powder

I really liked the product. The only problem I had was the packaging. I does not seal at the top and I had to put in another container to keep moisture out.