













3D Printer Kit with Aluminum Ender 3 Extruder Upgraded, Compression Die Springs for Bed Leveling, Metal Hand Twist Leveling Nut Suit for Ender 3 Pro/5/5 Pro, CR-10 Series/10V2/20/20 Pro
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Robert Price
> 24 hourSprings warped the print bed.
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Linguini
> 24 hourThis is a good deal if thats all you are after. After making my purchase I found better deals that included Capricorn tubing, spare nozzles, spare bowden couplers and clips and all sorts of stuff for just a dollar or two more.
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Trouble_Man
> 24 hourAlready unimpressed. Just got the package, opened it up and everything looks the part, minus the springs...because theyre not there.
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J. Foust
> 24 hourThese springs are a serious upgrade over the stock Ender 3 Pro springs! I read a lot of notes saying that the stock springs just didnt have enough tension in them, and after every few print jobs I was having to level the bed again. Not the end of the world, but if something will solve that problem for under 20 bucks, and upgrade the extruder to aluminum, why the heck not go for it? Everything arrived quickly and was neatly packaged. After opening the bag with the bed springs and wheels, I was impressed. The springs are very beefy, the wheels are nicely made and have good grippy teeth on them, which will make fine adjustment much easier, plus the pop of red under the printer is a nice touch. Installation was pretty simple: Unscrew the stock adjustment wheels until they come off the screws. Lift the bed up (being careful not to damage the bed heat wires). Remove old springs. Then I set the rear springs in place and put the bed screws down through them to hold them in place, and then tilted front of the bed down and slipped in the front springs. It was a little awkward to get it all lined up, but nothing too bad at all. After that, I attached the fancy new adjustment wheels. I went around the bed, tightening each corner to around 25%, 50%, then 75%, then finally 100% of the way down. I figured I should tighten them up gradually to keep from twisting the bed or knocking anything too far out of whack. Happy with how things looked, I turned on the printer and hit auto-home, and discovered a problem: Home position now had the nozzle below the print bed! I went back and checked the adjustment wheels and they were cranked down as tight as I could get them. I ended up raising the Z-axis about 2mm and that looked better, so I adjusted the Z-axis stop switch up until it clicked against the bed. Then I fired up the printer again and auto-homed it. Much better! I could see I had a gap now. I dont know if it was the upgraded parts, luck, or what, but leveling was much quicker. I leveled all four corners, then checked the center and it was dead on. After that I went back around the corners to check them all. The front left needed a tiny tweak and everything else was dead-on. The aluminum knobs are super grippy and very easy to make tiny adjustments. The stock plastic wheels werent terrible, but there are definitely better. Ive run 3 or 4 prints since doing the upgrade, and after that batch was done, I checked the level again. Still dead on , right where I left it! Hoping that continues, and things stay exactly where I put them. The extruder upgrade is really nice as well. It went on without any hassle, and feels way better than the cheap plastic included with the Ender 3. (just make sure when you remove the old one that you support the motor - the extruder is what holds it in place and when you remove the last screw, its going to drop!) The thing I like most about it is that its silver so its MUCH easier to see the hole past the gears that you have to get the filament into. That was a huge struggle for me with the black plastic, and with the new silver extruder, you can see exactly where the filament is going and it slipped right in with no trouble at all. I will say that the spring that came with the extruder was bigger and harder to compress than the stock one, and I didnt like the feel of it installed, so I used the stock spring and its been great so far.
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Daren P Lim
> 24 hourThe metal extruder is to replace the plastic one that the arm cracked. Warning the z will need to be adjusted as the springs are taller, making the bed higher. Failing to account for that the nozzle will drive into the bed and damage one or both. The bed remains level better after, but be aware to check first.
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Nic
> 24 hourAwesome addition. I bought mostly for the tighter springs, but when i went to replace the extruder covers i noticed that the plastic pieces i was replacing were cracked and about to break! highly recommend these parts. note: you will have to move your Z-stop up a bit due to the change in springs and wheels.
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George Baker
> 24 hourThese are great springs, still have to use washers on the front to compensate for it being a cantilever tipping a bit forward, how ever these keep the bed level longer. The extruder rocks, make sure you have the ability to replace the Bowden tube and tube nuts when replacing this extruder. The all metal wheel nuts are awesome and hold in place better than the plastic oe ones.
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Brett A.
> 24 hourWhile much of the installation is obvious, a few items were not and documentation was lacking. I could not determine how to install the new drive gear properly. The bed leveler wheels need deeper offsets to be most useful.
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John Doe
> 24 hourIt lasted only a short time before the threads wore out where the screw holds the wheel in the handle.. had to put the old handle back on temporarily.. I know the one I got wasn’t worth …. Maybe just this item .. but it broke …
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Alfonso suarez bernal
> 24 hourWorking perfect