BroadLink Wi-Fi Smart Remote Hub with Sensor Cable, IR RF All in One Automation Learning Universal Remote Control, With a Mini Smart Plug, Compatible with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT （RM4proS+SP4M)

This product was exactly what I was looking for. I have a bunch of IR devices including a TV and a Hi Fi sound system. Moreover, the house is full of RF switches and outlets I needed to control in a centralized way. I was able to automate much of my house using this device and now Im able to voice-control those devices. Setting up was quick and easy and the ability of recording either IR or RF signals is amazing.

I have the RM4Pro now controlling 8 banks of lights (14 sockets) that were previously just controlled with a 433.29 [Mhz] BN-Link remote and 315 [MHz] Westek RF remote. The RM4Pro is also controlling my Sony receiver, Samsung TV, and Samsung DVD player. The IR signal strength is very good, and works in the same room from about 25 feet away and through a metal grate in the cabinet doors. The RF signal strength is also very good, and I control sockets in cabinets and on different floors of my house. The RM4 Pro is very stable on the WiFi network and I have never had it drop or not be found. However, the Broadlink app is not more convenient than a physical remote control, and is less well laid out, and has less button mapping, than the apps that come with my receiver, DVD, Lights, etc. The real improvement is the ultimate goal of controlling the RM4Pro with my smart home assistant. I use G----e H--m Assistant (GHA), one of the two Alexa competitors. And this works pretty well. The switches have to be set up as bulb in Broadlink, or GHA wont recognize them. The control with GHA for the receiver/DVD is basic: on and off. But I really only wanted to control the lights, and the other device on-off control is really “gravy.” If you want to control more, like volume, changing source, etc., you should use the Broadlink app, physical remote, app that came with the device, or set up scenes in Broadlink (then you have to use the activate scene terminology in GHA). Con: I accidentally included sub-devices, temperature and humidity, when setting up the RM4Pro, and I cannot find a way to remove them without starting all over. Given how long it took to learn all the remotes and buttons, I actually ordered the sensor cable so that they will be functional rather than have to set everything up again. The sensor and humidity are interesting, in that they confirm my thermostat readings and are more precise (to two decimal points). Note: The RM4Pro cannot control Bluetooth controlled devices, like a PS4 or FireTV; but they do not advertise that they do, and could not do so without cooperation from the manufacturers anyway. Con: If you have a 5 [MHz] and 2.4 [MHz] WiFi broadcasting the same SSID, you have to disable the 5 [MHz] when setting up, or the device wont connect. Con: I had some trouble getting the RM4 Pro to connect to my WiFi LAN. I tried about 7 times, and, after the Broadlink app connected to the device, it just kept failing when trying to send the SSID and password to the device. I tried in AP mode and smart mode. I unplugged it and re-plugged it several times, and one time and it finally worked. Be persistent and keep resetting the device. Once set up though, it has been rock-solid. Con: This device does not come with a USB power supply. You must supply a USB micro that can put out at least 1 amp. I tried an old supply that put out 0.7 amps, and the device was flaky with this underpowered power supply. Overall, this Broadlink device paired with RF/IR is a much cheaper way to get smart on-off control than buying lots of smart lamp sockets individually. I’m already paying a significant amount to control overhead lights with Lutron’s Caseta hub system as I slowly replace switches for $150 a pop as I get the version with the built-in preset and matching Pico remote and pedestal. Conclusion: Im actually very happy the RM4 Pro solution the more I use it. Now I am going to buy some of the RM4 Pros little brothers, the IR-only remotes, to hit some IR fans in other rooms. Looking at some information on-line, it looks like Ill get the on-off functionality with GHM easily, and will have to use Broadlinks scenes for oscillate, speed, etc. 2021.06.10 update: Con - No Ethernet over USB support, so must use WiFi.

Aunque funciona, llego sin el Smart plug

Poor tech support and limited alexa commands but good universal remote.

Desde la app se pueden controlar todos los dispositivos IR con facilidad y es muy sencillo de configurar con infinidad de opciones. Sin embargo, la skill de Alexa para controlar es muy pobre. Solo permite prender y apagar la mayoría de dispositivos y un poco más con TV pero quedan muchas opciones que no funcionan con el asistente de voz

The hardware looks to be good but the app has a long way to go to make it user friendly. I got this to replace a universal remote for my Vizio TV and Yamaha Soundbar using IR, and also to control another device which uses RF. Overall the hardware works well as expected but it was extremely difficult to setup the app to work with my devices. The Vizio TV setup was okay using the search feature to match the brand, but it did not have all the functionality that my physical remote does. Additionally some of the buttons were incorrectly programmed. For example the number keys would send the wrong channel number e.g. pressing 4 would send #3 to the TV etc. So I had to use the learn mode to program the correct number keys. Many other standard functions were missing and I havent found a way to add buttons to teach it new functions. The Yamaha Soundbar was not available through the brand search. They had receivers and amplifiers but no soundbars. I could select a Yamaha amplifier to get the power and volume working, but once again I could not program/add buttons for other features of the soundbar e.g. sub-woofer volume, input selection, or changing sound modes. The RF device had to be manually programmed and it was not too difficult, but I would have liked the option to customize buttons with an appropriate graphic or an option to import my own graphic. Google, Alexa, and Siri integration is pretty basic. For example, I can ask Google to turn on the TV and Soundbar, but unable to change channels or volume through voice command. Siri via voice does not work for me, but I am able to use Shortcuts to add buttons that initiate pre-programed functions in the app. All in all, its able to handle the basic funtions I want but I would like more customization options in the app. I would say, if you like to tinker with gadgets and smart home devices, you may like the challenge, but I would not recommend this device for novice users who expect plug-and-play functionality from their devices.

As mentioned in the title, despite hours of messing around with this unit and resetting and restarting I absolutely could not get this to integrate with Alexa. I was able to control devices remotely using the broad link app, but the devices would not show up under Alexa devices, which is why I bought this - for voice control. After all, what’s the point of using my phone as a remote control when I have the actual device remote control?!? The ONLY thing Alexa recognized was the temperature - but not the humidity. So the added skill in Alexa WAS working, however no controllable devices appeared. I saw in other reviews you have to use “scenes” to get this to work, I couldn’t find that option in Alexa - so it’s looks like that feature was removed. On the subject of “rolling code” RF devices: I’m sure you’re likewise asking yourself what that is, and more importantly how to know if a device uses them. Long story short there is no way to know (manufacturers don’t advertise this), but suffice it to say that if you have anything more advanced than cheap-o Christmas light remotes it probably has rolling code. This is not so much for security, but more to prevent the wrong remote from controlling a device. I bought this to control a dust collector remote in my wood shop, but it wouldn’t work due to rolling code. I’m honestly not sure why the manufacturer hasn’t implemented rolling code, it is very common. In fact most devices that have a button to “link” the remote is a rolling code learning feature. If you do link this up, and the device only turns on or off once using the app it is using rolling code. I also tried linking this to a remote outdoor switched outlet (Christmas light control) and it would only turn the device on, not off. I really wanted this to work, but without getting the Alexa component to integrate it is a rather useless brick, and an expensive one at that. I can confirm that this unit was a dual RF frequency unit, tested it with remotes on 315MHz and 433MHz bands. Usually the remote lists a frequency, but if not, the app can “search” for the frequency which is a really cool feature. This device is **almost** there, but Alexa not working is a deal breaker, that’s what I bought it for

Latest IOS App on iPhone 11 w/latest firmware would not get past first step in adding device. Kept saying connect to your homes Wi-Fi. I was connected to a 2.4Ghz SSID w/no complementary 5Ghz SSID. Called there 5x24hr support line to no avail. They never answer, it goes to some Spanish voicemail. All the videos online like like they are using a much older version of the broad link app.. I also dislike that I have to give the app permissions for geo location on top of bluetooth which both seem unnecessary. I get the vibe that this thing is just a cheap data mining utility for some Chinese company. Doesnt have a mature product feel. I would ABSOLUTELY recommend putting this on a segmented guest network. It only needs to communicate outbound unless you intend to use the Roku feature. I was excited there seems to be decent support for some advanced things like home-bridge etc.. but those are all worthless if the device wont even connect to the network. Im in the process of returning and going with a bond fan bridge. Unfortunately it costs 3x as much but at least I KNOW that works.

It works perfectly for an IR Blaster that is connected to Home Assistant. My recommendation is to not have it connected to the internet.

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