BroadLink Wi-Fi Smart Remote Hub with Sensor Cable, IR RF All in One Automation Learning Universal Remote Control, With a Mini Smart Plug, Compatible with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT （RM4proS+SP4M)

I dont usually write negative reviews, in fact, this is my first. But when faced with such a truly awful product as this, I feel it my duty to warn my fellow humans what frustrations await them when you purchase a Broadlink RM4 Pro. To be fair, I dont know if this device will control IR or RF products or even sync with Alexa, Google Assistant, or IFTTT, as promised. I actually CAN’T know that because I couldnt get past the installation. For a device marketed as a bridge for the smart home market, this device is anything but smart. In fact, its designers had so little disregard for their customers that they thought it acceptable to exclusively REQUIRE 2.4ghz WiFi in a device sold in 2020. That in itself would not be so bad, there are plenty of older, dumber, simpler devices that use this frequency but Broadlink appears to have gone out of their way to ensure 5ghz dual band systems absolutely, positively, cannot be compatible with their product. As evidenced on their support site, which actually recommends that first you disable the 5ghz band for as long as you use their product. Disregarding how unacceptable it is to recommend one stop using a superior technology that was finalized over 11 years ago, the site further recommends that if you cannot disable the band, then you should try to walk far away and see if it’ll connect to the 2.4 band then, or install a temporary router or hotspot with the same SSID/PW. If those methods fail, you should simply get another router. Easy peasy. I actually tried the first two recommendations because I really didn’t want to have to through the trouble of returning… also because I’m an idiot. So after walking down the street with phone, Broadlink, and USB battery bank in hand on 101* day with no results, I setup the mobile hotspot on “phone B”. The issue then arose that, because again it is the year two thousand and twenty, my hotspot was inundated with connection requests from 80+ devices throughout the house wondering where their precious network went. So after shutting off power to the house (yes, really) and manually killing multiple tablets, a couple of UPSs, and a smattering of cell phones, I was finally within the hotspot’s capacity to connect. Only nothing happened. The same stupid app giving the same stupid message. “Could not connect”. 5 days and uncountable hours later, I’m done. I’m sending it back and posting this review. If you have a router made in the last 5 years or have more than 10 devices connected to your network, run away. This device will not work. It is a device marketed to smart home hobbyists, but built for people who have 1 PC hardwired to Facebook for the “news”. I know this review was initially to serve as a warning, but at this point I just don’t care anymore. This was my therapy. If nobody reads this, fine. At least I have bled the poisonous Broadlink experience from my system. Thanks for the refund, Amazon.

I got this to control my fans in my living room. Was not able to match the RF from remote. Returned. The software seemed a bit rough on the edges but I think cound be a great product for the right person.

Android setup failed as shown in the attached picture. Iphone setup worked fine. 5 stars if the android setup worked. The cloud based sharing of configurations worked well, the android phone picked up what the iphone setup. I used it to replace an RF fireplace remote. I discovered that the fireplace remote actually sends 2 commands with each button press, for example: set flame to 2 and set fan to 4. This required programming a button for each combination to be controlled. Not a problem as thats just how the remote worked.

We have a Broadlink Pro 3 model and had issues using it with a particular model fan (we have 4 of these fans), so when we found out the new version was out, we opted to try it out and see if the upgraded device would now work with our ceiling fans. Unfortunately, it does not. It seems to work with the light, but not the actual fan controls. However, any other devices that we have programmed to it, it has worked without issue and its integration with Google Home is awesome too (this was also available on the version 3 model too), so we decided to keep the unit and will gift our old unit to a friend or family member who wants the capability of controlling IR/RF devices with WiFi.

This device is awesome. I wanted to integrate an entertainment system with Alexa. This device bridges that gap. It operates everything I need. Xbox, TV, Amplifier, everything turns on, scrolls through menus, adjusts settings. I am pleased and can recommend this. It does take a little effort to learn and setup, but once its set, its a solid smart home improvement.

For the most part this is an excellent product until you change the password on your router, then you lose all the hard work you have invested in scanning your original remotes. The universval remote app does offer the ability to backup the remotes. Unfortunately, this did not work for me using my android tablet. I did manage to backup two remotes using my android phone. Today, I added another remote but could not backup with my phone or tablet. While trying to backup remote, I get submission failed, please check network status. I find it hard to believe that Verizon and Mediacom cannot connect to Broadlinks servers reliably.

I bought the IR/RF PRO unit to add functionality to my Google Home, specifically to control a Honeywell tower fan, a Sony Stereo, and my (RF 433Mhz controlled) kitchen blinds. The Broadlink app is good and worked well in some areas. First, if you dont have 2.4GHz Wi-Fi and only 5GHz Wi-Fi, this device will NOT work. The device needs 2.4Ghz Wi-Fi to connect. I had both in my home, so set it up on that. Two Wi-Fi modes to connect, but it connected. Once connected to Wi-Fi, with app installed, you add devices. App had groupings. I selected fans. They you can either learn IR buttons manually, or use preset codes from many available brands. I found Honeywell, none of 2 presets were compatible. So, easily added Power On (,Power Off), Speed, and Sweep (Oscillate) to pre designated buttons by learning from my remote. They all worked with the app. Sony Stereo, success with one of the Sony presets, but only On/Off, Mute, and Volume Up/Down. Couldnt change stereo modes, or tune channels. So, with JUST the App and fan control okay, stereo limited, but worked. The RF controller for my blinds didnt work at all. I called Broadlink tech support and they said it wasnt compatible with what I had, despite me having the 433MHz RF remote for my blinds to learn from. Specically they said, BroadLink devices do not support motorized or rolling codes. With rolling codes, the remote and the receiver each generate code in a specific order. Every time the remote is used, it generates a new code that is encrypted. BroadLink devices do not offer support to encrypted appliances. I then added the Broadlink device to Google Home. That worked easily. It detected my fan and Stereo, then I assigned them to my Living Room in hopes all functions would work. NOPE! The only Fan control provided was for on/off but no control of fan speed, or fan sweep/oscillate. The Stereo(/Amplifier) didnt load at all, even after unlinking/relinking Broadlink device, and reseting everything as recommended by Broadlink. Summary; stand alone app okay to control IR devices (but limited function), poor integration and loss of device control with Google Home, and RF functionality (for me) wasnt compatible with my blinds, and not sure whose blinds would be.

This is the only option in the market and it works, makes any applices with remote smart for cheap. Interface is very straight forward. I very like it, i bought it twice.

Order 1 electric blind as a test case before buying all 9. Turns out that I needed a smart hub. This one was very easy to set up and program to have blinds go up automatically in the morning and down at sunset. I have now ordered 8 more. Looking forward to automation of all blinds

I have the RM4Pro now controlling 8 banks of lights (14 sockets) that were previously just controlled with a 433.29 [Mhz] BN-Link remote and 315 [MHz] Westek RF remote. The RM4Pro is also controlling my Sony receiver, Samsung TV, and Samsung DVD player. The IR signal strength is very good, and works in the same room from about 25 feet away and through a metal grate in the cabinet doors. The RF signal strength is also very good, and I control sockets in cabinets and on different floors of my house. The RM4 Pro is very stable on the WiFi network and I have never had it drop or not be found. However, the Broadlink app is not more convenient than a physical remote control, and is less well laid out, and has less button mapping, than the apps that come with my receiver, DVD, Lights, etc. The real improvement is the ultimate goal of controlling the RM4Pro with my smart home assistant. I use G----e H--m Assistant (GHA), one of the two Alexa competitors. And this works pretty well. The switches have to be set up as bulb in Broadlink, or GHA wont recognize them. The control with GHA for the receiver/DVD is basic: on and off. But I really only wanted to control the lights, and the other device on-off control is really “gravy.” If you want to control more, like volume, changing source, etc., you should use the Broadlink app, physical remote, app that came with the device, or set up scenes in Broadlink (then you have to use the activate scene terminology in GHA). Con: I accidentally included sub-devices, temperature and humidity, when setting up the RM4Pro, and I cannot find a way to remove them without starting all over. Given how long it took to learn all the remotes and buttons, I actually ordered the sensor cable so that they will be functional rather than have to set everything up again. The sensor and humidity are interesting, in that they confirm my thermostat readings and are more precise (to two decimal points). Note: The RM4Pro cannot control Bluetooth controlled devices, like a PS4 or FireTV; but they do not advertise that they do, and could not do so without cooperation from the manufacturers anyway. Con: If you have a 5 [MHz] and 2.4 [MHz] WiFi broadcasting the same SSID, you have to disable the 5 [MHz] when setting up, or the device wont connect. Con: I had some trouble getting the RM4 Pro to connect to my WiFi LAN. I tried about 7 times, and, after the Broadlink app connected to the device, it just kept failing when trying to send the SSID and password to the device. I tried in AP mode and smart mode. I unplugged it and re-plugged it several times, and one time and it finally worked. Be persistent and keep resetting the device. Once set up though, it has been rock-solid. Con: This device does not come with a USB power supply. You must supply a USB micro that can put out at least 1 amp. I tried an old supply that put out 0.7 amps, and the device was flaky with this underpowered power supply. Overall, this Broadlink device paired with RF/IR is a much cheaper way to get smart on-off control than buying lots of smart lamp sockets individually. I’m already paying a significant amount to control overhead lights with Lutron’s Caseta hub system as I slowly replace switches for $150 a pop as I get the version with the built-in preset and matching Pico remote and pedestal. Conclusion: Im actually very happy the RM4 Pro solution the more I use it. Now I am going to buy some of the RM4 Pros little brothers, the IR-only remotes, to hit some IR fans in other rooms. Looking at some information on-line, it looks like Ill get the on-off functionality with GHM easily, and will have to use Broadlinks scenes for oscillate, speed, etc. 2021.06.10 update: Con - No Ethernet over USB support, so must use WiFi.