Brush Research FLEX-HONE Cylinder Hone, GB Series, Silicon Carbide Abrasive, 4-1/8 (105 mm) Diameter, 240 Grit Size

Did a quick hone of the cylinder walls while refreshing the engine over the winter, Bore size on my motor was 4.030

These guys make the best hones I have used over 30 years. If you use this hone correctly you can bore a cylinder out 10,000ths top to bottom evenly for 10 over pistons and rings. I do this in a variable speed drill but it can be done in a drill press too. You must check all points in the cylinder often, cleaning as you go. Use a coarse hone to get most of it then change to a hone grit specified by your piston and ring manufacturers. Clean the cylinder and oil it testing with the piston for clearance. Use your micrometer til you reach spec so you dont get your piston stuck in the cylinder. Dont Rush!! Watch a cylinder honing machine on you-tube to understand the motion you must use to keep the honing even. Always use a quality honing oil.

Excellent product. Brush hones are a very good thing to have around and BRM makes about the best ones. The price on amazon is inline with just about everywhere else so cant complain there. I used this particular hone on a standard bore small block ford engine block to hone the cylinders before I installed the pistons and rings. The 180 grit has worked great for me with standard Iron piston rings. If youre using moly rings or something else, refer to the manufacturers recommendation when choosing grit size. I also like the brush hones because you can purchase one for less than a machine shop will charge you to hone your cylinders, and you can usually do more than one block with one. The last BRM hone I had did 5 small blocks and still has some life in it. Take that for what you will. Very good product at a very good price. Definitely recommend for your rebuild or re-ring project!

Rebuilt a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L (straight six) without removing the engine from the vehicle, and the Flex-Hone worked great for me. Did a lot of homework before using, to understand exactly what the procedure was and that I had the necessary drill, clearance, fluids, posture, RPM, and honing technique. I had to mod the hone to weld a hex bit to the shaft (making it as short as possible from drill back to hone-front for the mounted engine), but managed to get the job done. I would not have been able to use any other traditional honing tool in the space, and it was very forgiving for the angles I was working with.

Works to re-hone a cylinder by yourself if you dont want or cant take the block to the machine shop, wich, of course, would be the only proper way to rebuild an engine. I had an engine that was seized from rust in one of the cylinders and this hone was able to clean it up enough to put this thing back on the road. it didnt remove the rust pitting but it made it smooth enough so I couldnt feel it with my fingernail.

Worked fantastic to hone a 4.7 HO from an 02 Grand Cherokee. I used 5w-30 as the lubricating oil (it says on both their website and the instructions on the box that you can either use their cutting oil or just a normal 5w-30 oil), put a couple sheets of cardboard below the engine block and went to it. Watch a few videos on how to do it and the rhythm to use to achieve your correct cross hatching pattern and youll be good to go. It took me two cylinders to get it right where I wanted it and then I was golden. Make sure when doing it, you use the hone as little as you need to so you dont overdo it (Not really sure if you could, but thats the general rule Ive always heard with these and figure it cant hurt to go by it).

I didnt expect it to show up so quickly. I ordered it last Thursday and its at my door on Monday. The 2 day thing has fallen apart since the plan demic. These folks did me well. I wonder if they have big buckets of time to work on my projects for sale? Id buy 2 if I could. Thank you!

Buy exact fit to the .10 or one .10 larger Working on a 22r Toyota stock bore 3.6. This hone did its job with a nice cross hatch. However, the hone just barely hit the bore walls. Maybe this is by design but I feel I should have gotten the 3.75 bore hone as my bore size is 3.6 If your bore is 3.5 then you would be fine. The hone would have a bit of pressure on the bore walls. If you plan on honing a 22r look for the next size up. The balls on the hone wore down Farley fast making flat spots on most the balls. So when you use this you do not want to hone one bore at a time. Make like 2 passes per bore to break in the hone tell you have broke the glazing off the bore walls and broke in the hone, then work on your cross hatch pattern. Over all I like this hone and its ease of use but the fact that I most likely will not be able to use it again, I may get one more use from it in 5-8 years witch would pay for it self then but a stone hone would be more cost effective. If you build the same 3.5 size bore engine all the time this hone would be ideal. Cause you can just grab put in drill and hone (adding cutting oil).

did what i wanted. i use constant water vice oil for honing since i want to get rid of the what im scraping off. this was a little big for my little guy (1989 CIVIC HATCH) but it worked perfectly. and it doesnt look like it is worn out so its not one time use. unless you are trying to take off alot of material.

I have a 3000 mile freshly rebuild 355 sbc. Went with new rings rods and pistons.. A quick Hone to knock the glaze off was exactly what it needed. Does a great job !!