Cardas Soldering Wire Quad Eutectic Silver Solder with rosin flux 1/4 lbs (113g) roll

I use this solder exclusively on the high end studio and audiophile audio cables I assemble in the shop. While I dont know that I believe it improves audio quality, its far easier to work with than normal solder, saves me time in production (especially when its high volume), and creates very strong joints that resist corrosion. My understanding is it will improve corrosion resistance long term, and it seems to. Ive also never had a failed joint with this solder, on any of the thousands of cables I made (and some musicians are very abusive to cables). So while Ill use Multicore solder for my electronics prototyping and Kester for regular jobs, anything really important strength- and signal- wise usually gets Cardas. And its made here in Oregon, which I love.

The best solder available.

What can I say, Cardas Quad Eutectic solder is by far the BEST out there. Hands down, I’ve tried them all. From cheap hobby store “silver solder” to the most expensive boutique brands. I restore/repair/upgrade/design Hi end Audio gear. Names like MCIntosh, Conrad Johnson, Cary, etc. equiptment that rivals cars in price sometimes. I need the best. Cardas is it. If you don’t understand the meaning/science behind Euctectic solder, look into it, the more you know. Great for beginners to start with, it’s very very easy to work with. Leaving perfect shiny solid solder work. I see a lot of “amateur soldering” and let me tell you. Most people who “can solder”, can’t. Make sure to use the correct iron, temp and procedure for your work. Also, a solid mechanical connection is always required. Wrap your wire/leads at least once. Use terminals or solder tags, and make sure nothing moves while the solder sets. I see so many cracked, failed, cold solder joints. Also with the Vintage gear becoming popular and everyone being a tech now and “re-capping”, I’m amazed some of these pieces of gear still work. People, just touching the two ends and soldering is not enough. J-hook or use a terminal to join. The joint should be sufficient even WITHOUT solder. The solder should only be needed to “lock” the mechanical joint once hardened. This stuff hardens equally across the metal combo, making for an incredibly safe, solid, secure joint. Ive used Cardas for over a decade and never an issue with a cold solder. I buy the 1lb rolls quite a bit as I use so much. However, a single $30 roll will last the normal hobbiest a lifetime. Nice and thin making waste less of an issue. Again, if you’re going to get into serious work in audio gear. Use Cardas quad eutectic and a good adjustable solder station. Hakko makes a great rig for $100 on Amazon. You can’t beat it At the price and will last a lifetime. Realize PCB and point to Point applications require a much different approach. (Temp) Also, those recapping x-overs, use a heat sink(2-4$) to protect those expensive new caps. Leads heat up quickly and most noobs aren’t quick with an iron. Less is more, both in time heating and solder used. Finally, remember that a shiny joint is needed. Re-due bad solders than and there. Don’t wait til they’re a problem. With what people spend on caps and wire, spring for good solder. Cardas is a real player in the metallurgy game for a long time, fortunately for us audio heads. ***no affiliation at all to Cardas. Usually I don’t post positive reviews. When it’s needed it’s needed.

This is top notch. You may find better and I would ask that you post your response if you do.

Great stuff. Always stays shiny and the audible difference is there.

Just like my divorce - Expensive because its worth it!

The real Cardas is on the right. Cardas solder flows much better than this and doesnt have nearly as much flux. This acts like its lead free solder, its very difficult to melt. The amount of flux is ridiculous. Bottom line, youre paying for Cardas quality, and getting a very cheap knock off!

Very high quality solder.

Im not the sort that subscribes to Cardas audiophile nonsense marketing ploys, but this solder is genuinely fantastic. It wets the first time, every time, and produces clean and solid joints every time. Surface mount, through-hole, point to point, doesnt matter, it does exactly what you tell it to each and every time. I use it for everything, because the sheer consistency and cleanliness it provides is invaluable for any electrical work. The melting point is a bit low for higher temperature applications, but for general consumer electronics it simply does not get better than this. I spent years of my life believing that I was simply bad at soldering, and that it was something I could never get good at -- and then my boyfriend gave me a roll of this. Have never bought anything else since.

I grew up in the 50s and 60s and took Electronics Shop in High School and did projects before that so Ive spent countless hours with a soldering gun or iron in my hands. Im used to old school solder and had some worries that newer stuff would be difficult. Its not. This solder performs extremely well. Some of that is possibly due to a decent soldering station, but even on a cheap throwaway gun it handles just fine.