Cardas Soldering Wire Quad Eutectic Silver Solder with rosin flux 1/4 lbs (113g) roll

Just did an Elekit single ended tube amp kit. Used Kester for the structural solder. But I sprung for the best for any joints in the signal path. This stuff is great to work with. Do you really want to wonder What if?, Nah, just use the good stuff for your music, you deserve it.

This solder is pretty expensive but is very high quality. It melts/flows very well. A bit smokier than Im used to with other solders so be sure youre in a well ventilated space.

Excellent for Hifi cables

Very high quality solder.

What can I say, Cardas Quad Eutectic solder is by far the BEST out there. Hands down, I’ve tried them all. From cheap hobby store “silver solder” to the most expensive boutique brands. I restore/repair/upgrade/design Hi end Audio gear. Names like MCIntosh, Conrad Johnson, Cary, etc. equiptment that rivals cars in price sometimes. I need the best. Cardas is it. If you don’t understand the meaning/science behind Euctectic solder, look into it, the more you know. Great for beginners to start with, it’s very very easy to work with. Leaving perfect shiny solid solder work. I see a lot of “amateur soldering” and let me tell you. Most people who “can solder”, can’t. Make sure to use the correct iron, temp and procedure for your work. Also, a solid mechanical connection is always required. Wrap your wire/leads at least once. Use terminals or solder tags, and make sure nothing moves while the solder sets. I see so many cracked, failed, cold solder joints. Also with the Vintage gear becoming popular and everyone being a tech now and “re-capping”, I’m amazed some of these pieces of gear still work. People, just touching the two ends and soldering is not enough. J-hook or use a terminal to join. The joint should be sufficient even WITHOUT solder. The solder should only be needed to “lock” the mechanical joint once hardened. This stuff hardens equally across the metal combo, making for an incredibly safe, solid, secure joint. Ive used Cardas for over a decade and never an issue with a cold solder. I buy the 1lb rolls quite a bit as I use so much. However, a single $30 roll will last the normal hobbiest a lifetime. Nice and thin making waste less of an issue. Again, if you’re going to get into serious work in audio gear. Use Cardas quad eutectic and a good adjustable solder station. Hakko makes a great rig for $100 on Amazon. You can’t beat it At the price and will last a lifetime. Realize PCB and point to Point applications require a much different approach. (Temp) Also, those recapping x-overs, use a heat sink(2-4$) to protect those expensive new caps. Leads heat up quickly and most noobs aren’t quick with an iron. Less is more, both in time heating and solder used. Finally, remember that a shiny joint is needed. Re-due bad solders than and there. Don’t wait til they’re a problem. With what people spend on caps and wire, spring for good solder. Cardas is a real player in the metallurgy game for a long time, fortunately for us audio heads. ***no affiliation at all to Cardas. Usually I don’t post positive reviews. When it’s needed it’s needed.

I only use this, put away my wonder solder along time ago, and recently compared them again, with the benefit of experience. Wow. The only solder.

Great high quility solder.

I really wanted to like this solder since most of what I do is geared towards audio. I design and build class-D amplifiers and speaker systems and like the idea of using silver solder. I have used Radio Shack silver bearing solder for years and it has been my go-to silver solder for audio and surface mount work. This solder behaves very much like lead-free solder even though it is labeled as having lead content. It really doesnt want to stick to anything, even the soldering iron tip, and just beads up into a ball and falls off the solder wire. It even has trouble soaking into fluxed de-soldering braid. I cant really recommend this solder but for best results use higher heat and a LOT of flux.

Pros: Excellent solder found that it melted the best at 350 degrees. I used it mainly for through hole soldering and had very few problems. Flows very smoothly. The silver content is high enough that it conducts very well. This solder reworks extremely well had a couple of fowl ups and had no issue fixing them, Cons: There was a lot of shrink wrap holding the solder together and it took forever to remove. Something that i noticed but was not an issue was the amount of flux that the solder contains internally not terrible just more then i was used to.

I have used Cardas silver bearing solder on several tubed stereo amplifiers etc.that I have built. In fact, if I am building anything sound related I use this. Does it make a difference in sound quality? you may rightfully ask. I will say, Welp, I think it does, however you may not. But thats why I use it. I mean, plus, it IS really good solder. I have always been very pleased with anything I have purchased with the Cardas name so there you have it. I will absolutely buy more when this roll runs out.