Hopkins Towing Solutions 47185 Multi-Tow 4 Flat to 7 Blade and 4 Flat Adapter

I was happy with the results. The bracket was okay but not perfect. The production engineers need to study the bracket install position. it was not low enough for ideal placement. I had to fabricate an extension for the wiring setup to work in front of the hitch receiver. Overall it was okay.

Good construction. The bracket is just okay. Reason for 4 stars. I have had to bend it back a time or two however it was mounted on a farm truck that is predominantly off road.

Perfect fit, works good. But 7 blade cap is flimsy plastic. Doesnt seem like it will last. Also the gauge wire for the battery lead a is the same as the lighting, not as heavy as the electric brake wire. I run a heavy gauge battery wire to the trailer so I can charge not only the break-away battery, but also an on board ( camping, hydraulics or accessory) full size battery. But good price and easy install

It great looks good and the plug seems to be hermetically sealed on the backside to prevent any moisture or water to get into the plug great product. the only thing that IO didnt like was the bracket that it comes with. Seamed flimsy to me and I didnt have any good place to mount it. So I just=cut a hole in my bumper and mounted the plug Looks great and mounted solid..

My installation was a little different than the normal hookup since I wanted to do four things: 1) tow a small trailer w/o brakes, 2) be able to tow a trailer with brakes using a brake controller, 3) provide power to operate a macerater pump for transferring black water, and 4) provide power to operate a power lift to help load and unload the back of the minivan. Therefore, I needed a little heavier wire to the back of the minivan, but otherwise the hookup was the same. The only thing I did differently than suggested in the package was to mount the plugs on the bumper rather than on the hitch - that was a mistake, since the angle bracket has taken some damage that it would not have experienced had it been attached to the hitch. My requirements 1) and 2) were very well taken care of by the adapter package. I run a separate black wire for ground rather than use the frame of the vehicle and, like I said, due to my load requirements, I needed heavier wire. I used the black wire from the adapter as my blue wire for the electric brake support. Unfortunately, my macerater pump uses the center wire (the one marked backup lights - purple) as an auxiliary power. If I get time, I will switch that to use the black wire (aux) which seems to be more suitable, but for now that is is how it is. The heaviest user of power is the power lift. It uses 30 amps of 12 vdc, so the wires (red for positive and black for negative battery were run to it first and then Td to the other operations (one for the power brakes (2) and one for the macerater (3). Since the lift does not operate during travel and would not be in use while the macerater is running, the power is shared among them as well as the lights for the trailers (both 1) and 2) ). I had installed the standard 4-wire small trailer package which is a prerequisite for this products installation. It all works like a charm.

Fit like a glove.

The ground pin on the 4-wire plug broke off even though its never been used. I installed this on my Ford van without too much trouble. I was able to get an adapter to plug right into the vans OEM trailer wire harness at the back of the van and plug the other end into the back of this adapter. I have to run the brake, 12V accessory and reverse light wires separately only because my van doesnt have those wires built into the tow package harness. The real downside to this adapter is the cheap manner in which it was made. The actual wiring side is fine. The plug itself is the issue. Its just really cheap and fimsy. The 4-wire connector broke off just by me removing the plastic cap a few times to test the wiring.

Works great. I had to change my factory 7 pin plug because I upgraded to a heavy duty hitch vs the factory one that was too small and I lost my mounting bracket that was attached from factory. There was someone else who talked about how flimsy the mounting bracket is and I have to say that has not been my experience. Used a couple oversized self tapping 5/16 sheet metal screws to hold it down screwed it in and it works perfect. Install was simple and sweet, wired into my Factory 01 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins with butt connectors and heat shrink tubing, then taped it all up to protect any exposed wires. Will put up the wiring schematic for 2nd gen 98.5-02 rams if anyone else needs the info. Might be same for other Dodges, but I cant say. Center= purple/black tracer PL/BK back up lights 1 oclock= red/orange tracer RD/OR 12v Power 3 oclock= brown/red tracer BR/RD Right turn and brake 5 oclock= light blue LB Brake Controller 7 oclock= Black BK Ground , (mine has two black wires) 9 oclock= Green/red tracer GR/RD Left turn and brake 11 oclock= Black/orange tracer BK/OR Running lights.

Plugs into an existing 4-flat for lights if you have one in place, or that connector can be cut off and the wires individually spliced. The other three wires, for brakes, back-up and 12v have to be spliced. It comes with butt splices. You have to know what you’re doing. If you have a vehicle that has separate trailer light wiring and a connector underneath, like GM trucks and Suburbans, you would be much better off getting a connector made to connect to your specific brand of vehicle, and avoid splices altogether.

Simple and easy way to make up for Fords Super failure in their 1999 Super Duty truck. Dont get me wrong - I LOVE my truck but what was Ford thinking producing a truck of this caliber with no RV7 trailer plug. Sure in 2001 they fixed the problem but I dont HAVE a 2001 truck. This was an excellent way to get on the road immediately to bring our new (to us - 1995 28 trailer) camper home from the seller. Some extra wire hookups and a brake controller and now my truck is a TRUCK again.