Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 / Ender 3 Printers

It is great if your filament is getting jammed and /or your extruder is dripping

Great kit. Easy to use. Watched install video on you tube (please be sure yo not over tighten heating wires or it shorts out. My fault) added one to both my ebder 3s now

You really can’t go wrong with this extruder and hot end for its beautiful design, efficient extrusion, and no clog hot end because the filament passes through directly. And it also works best with the printable suggested cooking fan housing keeping everything tidy, cool, and out of the way of your print. I originally bought this to add next to a Hemera combo but after having issues with that, I ended up replacing three more with this combo. It’s very reliable and easy to keep running.

Great addition to my modified Ender 3 Pro. Not a single jam, no slipping, and helps reduce the tuning required between material changes compared to the original hot end setup. Would buy again in a heartbeat.

I purchased this, primarily, to make printing flexible materials easier for the Ender. I know that there are better extruders that help, but my two other printers are direct drive and I never have any issues with them. You will have to print a little slower with the extra weight on the gantry, but slower is the way to print flexibles successfully anyhow. Just remember to calibrate your esteps and change your retraction settings in your slicer.

A good all-metal hotend and direct drive carrier open a world of possibilities with your printer. With the incredible machining work on this all metal direct-drive hot-end, it’s quite impressive that MicroSwiss has been able to keep the price point as low as they have. The backing plate/carriage is quite versatile, with extra holes to mount other fan shrouds, sensors, etc. and sets the heater block roughly in the same place as a stock ender 3(version whatever). The carriage and direct drive unit all mount in a very balanced way, and I have not noticed any negative effects from the extra weight on the gantry, but a second Z-axis lead-screw was helpful. The heater block and heat break are of equal quality to the carriage, heating up much faster than stock, with no more PTFE tubes melting, and is ready for a higher temp heater cartridge and a +300C thermistor. May upgrade to a K-type thermocouple in the near future.

I dont have this product but did need to remove a pressed on gear on my ender. You can pick 1 of 2 ways. If you are smart print out a puller for this easy to print and find the nut and screw needed for assembly. Or if you like me and everything is in pieces. Wrap the motor in a plastic bag and poke the extruder gear out of the bag. I wrapped a paper towel around the shaft too just to be safe. Take a dremel and a fine cutoff wheel cut a line in the valley between the extruder teeth. Cut down as far as you feel safe closer the better. One cut then another 180 degrees on the other side. Then put the brass gear on hard surface with motor in your hand. Put a chisel in the grove you cut and a light tap with a hammer splits the gear. I wasnt going to buy a new stepper and not going to pull it off with screwdriver or hammer

I used this to replace a worn out extruder on a Tevo Tornado (CR10 Clone). The process went very smoothly and after adjusting the Z Offset its been printing beautifully. Im using this system to print Taulman 230 Nylon and the direct drive handles this filament very well. If youre thinking about converting a Bowden system to a direct drive Id highly recommend this one.

The nozzle that came with my kit was just a brass nozzle and not a hardened one. Just printing PETG and its already having major issues.

Worth the purchase