Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 / Ender 3 Printers

Hot end leaked and melted and caused fire alarm to go off. Most people print over night. Scary stuff. Changed to 4 stars as Micro Swiss came through with a replacement. Thank you Micron Swiss

Mounted on an older CR-10. Perfect fit and the benefit of a full metal hotend for abs printing.

Id already taken my Creality-10s as far as I could. Bearings, timing gears, belt tensioners... A/C heating blanket, BL-Touch, 32-bit board. It printed as well as expected with PLA+, on plain glass. But every few weeks it would clog, and Id have to clean the hot end up again. I tried printing ABS (otherwise good with lots of warping) and TPU (through a bowden tube!) with no success. I knew an all-metal hotend would eliminate the clogging problem and Micro Swiss was popular. I liked their all metal construction and it looked like it should be reliable. And it has been. Print quality has never been better I can reach higher temperatures to reliably print other filaments, and the direct drive lets me run flexible filaments.

Its over priced for what it does. All it really does is move your extruder and mounts it over your hot end. You can 3D print a plate and have some extra screws to hold the existing extruder and mount in place without spending so much for this. A aluminum plate with clamps can do the same thing the Micro Swiss can do, and all you need is 1 clamp and a sliver of metal. If youre smart enough to MOD your 3D printer, do that instead of buying this gimmick. It really isnt a upgrade when all it does is move the extruder.

Excelente inversión es seguir el manual para instalar y funciona perfecta

I have a ender 3, 2 CR-10S Pros, Prusa MK2.5, and a CR-10S. I installed this hotend on my CR-10S its been collecting dust, I use my pros most of the time. Installing this hotend on my CR-10S has now turned my CR-10S into my printer of choice to run. Now my CR-10S pros are collecting dust going to have to get them upgraded soon.

Great kit. Easy to use. Watched install video on you tube (please be sure yo not over tighten heating wires or it shorts out. My fault) added one to both my ebder 3s now

I used this to replace a worn out extruder on a Tevo Tornado (CR10 Clone). The process went very smoothly and after adjusting the Z Offset its been printing beautifully. Im using this system to print Taulman 230 Nylon and the direct drive handles this filament very well. If youre thinking about converting a Bowden system to a direct drive Id highly recommend this one.

I had set aside purchasing this for awhile and always had the thought the of wanting to print flexible filaments in the back of my mind as well. I decided to finally pull the trigger and purchase this kit, absolutely love it. Took some time to get everything dialed in but once figure out, it works great and flexibles are a breeze. I installed it on my Voxelab Aquila which is a Ender 3 V2 clone and fits for the most part. End stop is more enclosed than the Ender 3 requiring a new end stop cover and the fan shroud for the hot end is mounted differently on the Aquila requiring me to use the stock end 3 shroud for the time being. But this definitely worth every penny!

Updated review. I initially posted a negative review as it seemed no matter what I did I was getting blobs on large flat areas. after about a month of fettling, I now am 95% of where I was with a stock Ender 3 V2. Most of the problems were me. It is now my belief that due to the additional weight on the gantry, you NEED to go through your printer again and re-check every single nut and bolt and eccentric nuts, as the setup is less forgiving than stock. Make sure the right side of the X-axis isnt sagging. Critically, do NOT overtighten the eccentric nuts. Make sure they are just tight enough to stop wobble, I had mine way too tight causing wheel wear. If you get layer shift, tighten belts more even if you think they are tight enough. CRITICAL: When hot, clean the nozzle of any filament before starting print. I had so many issues with filament gunking up the nozzle, then dropping off. I also HIGHLY recommend getting a CR Touch and using the Jyers UBL 15x15 firmware. Made my life so much easier for levelling. My settings right now: Extruder: 137.5 (for 100mm of filament) (with stock extruder tension). Retraction: 0.5mm and 25m/s speed. (I was originally trying 1.5mm and 2mm, which caused issues) Print speed: 30m/s with PETG. Hotend: 245 (up from 240), Bed 80c, then 70c after few layers I seem to occasionally get unexplained under-extrusion. Im still playing with settings though. The instructions were extremely thorough for this kit. I like the kit overall. Just -as mentioned- make sure you go around your printer and do the general maintenance to make sure everything is OK. I assumed mine was fine and spent a month with issues because parts were loose (wheels, eccentric nuts, belts).