AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter with Bass Restoration

Let me start by saying that this thing is exactly what you need if you want to keep your factory head unit and steering wheel controls and not spend too much or take up too much space. If you spend less at all youll be disappointed to say the least. Its extremely easy to wire and the 3rd RCA output automatically sums to become your Sub output which is also awesome. The one thing I found (and it is mentioned in the instructions) is that with my head unit (Clarion in a 2013 Subaru WRX) the speaker levels never allow the unit to be turned off. I pulled the cover off to check the jumper settings and they were correct for the GTO circuit. So rather than use a remote signal from my head unit I purchased the little switch that is linked below and it works to shut the LC7i down, which, in turn, shuts off my other 2 amplifiers so I dont end up with a dead battery. This might be annoying to some but I like switches with pretty lights because Im (as my wife tells me daily) a little kid in a 42 year old mans body. Not a deal breaker for me because it vastly improves the sound of my factory system. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PU0/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this installed in my 2017 ram along with an LC2i because the truck has a seperate sub woofer line out. if your dont have a seperate line out for subs than this LOC is the only one you need. I was haveing horrible speaker pop when turning on the system and even louder when turning it off. I would get a pop from the door speakers than another pop from the sub. I tried everything to fix this issue, I called Audio Control several times and looked at their web site for guidence on how to fix the popping. It took an engineer buddy of mine to help me figure it out so I thought I would share this info with you because I know how annoying it is. So....to fix the popping; I used a remote wire to a cigarette lighter that turns on and off with the stereo, I ran that remote wire to the LC7i remote in and jumped it to the LC2i remote in ( once you do this you will have to bypass the GTO settings by removing the cover of the 7i to switch the GTO to off and switch the 2i jumber on the side, to bypas). I did not use the remote out on either LCs but rather straight from the remote in terminal to the amps remote signal port. the trick is to get every thing to turn on and off at the same time, this method achieves that. Hope this helps.

Sounds great!!!

This is just an overall great product. I bought it for my 2016 Malibu so that I wouldn’t have to spend $500+ on a head unit that resembles the stock one. It allowed me to hook up more than one amp to my head unit and it also made my subwoofers hit harder.

So I did some research on this product and this is what I found out about the static and damaging to your amp issues that some people are having on the bad reviews.....READ THE INFO............... If you’ve checked all your connections, the AudioControl line converter has the power light on, you’ve confirmed that audio is playing out of your factory head unit and the amps are on, BUT you STILL don’t have audio, there is a good chance your factory system is not outputting any audio due to the fact that our Line Converters do not put a load on the speaker outputs. Meaning, since there is no resistance on on the high level speaker lines, the amp doesn’t think that there is a speaker connected to it, so it won’t output a signal. This is a perfect opportunity to plug our brand new AC-LGD! It will stabilize your factory system by putting the optimal load on the factory outputs so your system can sound the best it can!

A great product, added it to my OEM head unit which I couldnt do away with as it controls lots of other things in the car. I previously had some good quality line out converters, these fed into a Pioneer GM-8604 (100wrms x4) which feed Alpine Type R components in the front and Type R coxials in the rear doors. Theres a 8 sub in the rear parcel tray (all sound proofed) runs off the factory amp, it is a 150rms @4 ohm factory unit which I replaced with the Kenwood shallow mount 8. Anyway one of my key aims was to get more volume from my door speakers and tweeters, Id bought the speakers and amp and had always felt they didnt go anywhere near as loud as what Id hoped for. During my research one key attraction to the LC7i is that the output voltage is substantially improved over what comes out of the regular line out converters, so this means theres a really clean grunty signal to feed into my amp, end result my amp gains are turned right down to just about the minimum(so great for achieving less distortion) yet the system is now loud and crystal clear. The only slight let down is that the instructions that come with the LC7i are a bit basic,hence my rating of 4 stars rather than 5, the instructions could do with more detail for the skilled DIYer like myself, for example it would have been helpful to have more detail around performing the line level matching, the online video on Audio Controls website for this process is not for an LC7i, the principals are similar but it took me a fair amount of playing around to figure it out - simple once I knew but could have so easily been covered properly in the instructions which would have saved me a lot of time. There could also be more detail around the purpose of the internal jumpers - Im still undecided if Ive got these set correctly, some jumpers Im clear on, others Im not. The accubas is a big improvement over stock line converters, Id soundproofed my doors a while back and while midbass improved it still wasnt what Id hoped for - but the LC7i has sorted the bass rolloff, there is now good solid midbass present. At this stage I havent got my sub going through the LC7i but plan to - out of curiousity I disconnected my rear door speakers from my amp and then run a bridged cable to my sub - wow what a massive improvement both in terms of bass and loudness, so guess Ill now be bypassing the factory sub amp and getting a new amp so I can properly utilise the third channel output from the LC7i which is dedicated to a sub.

Best product I have purchased in a long time!

Fit great and sounds great in a wrangler. Easy install into existing under seat brackets.

I have purchased a new car, 2017 Hyundai Sonata which has a very nice integrated 6 or 7 in dash navigation / backup camera screen. I felt I wanted to integrate into this head unit, instead of my typical remove and replace scenario. I am so glad I found Audio Control. I have read mini-truckin magazine in the past, as well as other car audio mags, and I recall all the accolades given to this company and their products. The component LC7i works as advertised, and provides professional, high voltage inter-connection into my system. I didnt have factory amplifier, so I feed a JL Audio 750/5 (300 watt sub / 75 watt per corner RMS). This setup is wonderful, and the adjustment for each channel, and a clipping indicator on the unit is a great selling point. IF you feel you want amplification within an Audio Control unit, they have one as well. What this unit is great for is integrating a factory dash unit and all its capabilities, and boosting pre-amp signals to an amp for louder, cleaner music both interiors as well as a sub, so from 2 channel factory outputs to 3 channels output to amps. My JL amplifier has 5 channels, but this LC7i could drive both a sub amp, and a interior mid-range amp at the same time. I recommend this highly for anyone seeking a mid-powered (not ground shaking bass or window shattering highs) system that will play clean and fairly loud).

So it worked great, for 2 days. Excellent sound quality, no feedback, easy set up. But then it started sending my subwoofer amp into protection mode. I went to a local shop to have everything checked out, and they said the LC7i was bad. They were a dealer, they replaced it with one they had and everything was good again. So I know theres a lot of mixed reviews, and maybe I just got a bad one. Do your research on this before buying.