EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protection 3rd Edition, 2.38 Length, 5.25 Width 7.5 Height

I have installed several of them in the past 15 years & recommend every household should have one. I always wire to the main breaker but I do not recommend doing it unless you are experienced. It can be dangerous but it is the best way. Add up the cost to replace or repair every appliance in your house if there is a power surge usually from a lightning strike during a storm. I had to replace/repair 2 TVs & repair a furnace. Over a $1000.00

This unit has very good surge protection specs. For the price, I could not find anything better. However two issues: 1) The Nominal Discharge Current is mislabelled (I confirmed this with an Eaton tech, and they are now working on getting their labelling corrected, as of Feb 2016). It says Ln=5KA on the 2ULTRA unit. The actual value is Ln=20kA. 2)The 2ULTRA unit is supposed to be used with a 50A breaker, however anyone with a Siemens loadcenter will have a wiring issue. The set screws on the required Siemens Q250 breaker do not bottom out, and, at full extension, leave too much of a gap to grip the thin, stranded wiring of the 2ULTRA. They were designed for much thicker, solid conductors. Result: The breaker wiring seems OK-until a gentle pulling force is applied to the red or black wire at the breaker. The wire will release, hanging loose in the load center and causing an electrical hazard. Obviously, this does not meet code! It is also likely that the loose connection will create enough resistance to cause the surge protection to fail, even though both 2ULTRA LEDs are illuminated. The maximum sized breaker that will properly grip the 2ULTRA stranded wiring in a residential Siemens loadcenter is 30A, as far as I can tell. The biggest problem with this flaw is that the average homeowner (and probably many electricians) will not notice this during installation, leaving a loose and dangerous wiring situation in their loadcenter.

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This highly rated surge protector is excellent for home applications. Do it yourselfers need to be sure to watch the provided video links to insure proper installation. This unit requires its own dedicated breaker installed closest to the incoming power on the bus within the breaker panel. This is critical for optimum protection. I would have given us five stars for installation, but I had to solder on two 14 inch long extension wires in order to reach the terminations inside the breaker panel.

Well made and good to have piece of mind your electronics are protected.

Have 2 of these installed in two of my main panels one for my house and other for garage, so far so good after we had a couple of surges in our area after transformers blew up on the main lines, one thing the wires could be made longer, had to make a extension for the ground and neutral to reach the common bars on each side of the panels

Wires are to small for the 50 amp breaker ! This is what worked for me, disclaimer , Im not an a certified electrician, I only play one at home...... take a 3/4 inch piece of 12 gauge copper wire , wrap the stranded wire from the unit around your copper piece and solder the connection . This gives the wire dia you need and fits great in the breaker. Now that is a Mainer thing and be careful working inside the main panel ! Dave

For this to work successfully the device needs to be wire to a breaker that is in the number one position. The hardest part is removing the knock-out. You will need a 4 piece of emt, a threaded emt pull-elbow, and one emt connector. Removed the cover from the pull-elbow and thread the wires through the opening, then screw the elbow to the surge protector. Next, attach the appropriate length of emt to the panel using the emt connector. Now thread the wires through the emt into the panel and secure the conduit with the set screw to the pull elbow. Close the cover on the pull elbow. Then it is a matter of red to one terminal on the double pole breaker and black to the other. Green is to the ground bar and white is to the Neutral bar. They should NEVER go into the same setscrew. If this is your primary panel there will be no difference between the ground bar and neutral bar. Its just good practice to put the neutrals on one bar and the ground on another. However, if this is a sub-panel it is critical that the ground and neutral wires be on the correct bar. ** This is just a general guide. Your safety is up to you. Turn the power off, put non conductive covers over the lugs. If you decide to to drill the panel make sure you capture all your metal shavings or you will have a very bad time (vacuum while drilling and blow out when done or use a punch).

Easy install. Hope it never has opportunity to prove it worth.

This product is a great safety device. The installation was simple and straight forward. I like the led lights on the face that indicate its status. I hope its never needed but its there if needed. Dont forget to buy a dual 50 amp breaker to go with it for installation.