ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin LCD UV-Curing Resin 405nm Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD 3D Printing Grey 1000g

I normally use Anycubic in my photon ,but wanted to try different resins. I tried Siraya grey and Elegoo standard grey. This elegoo I used recommended settings and 6 out of 6 prints did not stick to the build plate. I switched back to the siraya ,same file..and the print came out fine. I had tried increasing the initial exposure time to see if that helped,but nope..print on the FEP,none on the plate. Wasted some bucks on this bottle,but now I know ..will stick with siraya ,liked it better than Anycubic as well.

Great results!, just dont forget to adjust your settings, they are different than the non-transparent one.

One of the easiest resins to use.

Great resin for a great price,used it in my photon and had successfull prints from the get go.

The manufacturer recommends shorter curing times for this resin, but I ran the Resin XP test and found that 15 seconds with 0.05mm layers worked best. I use 15 second regular layers, 5 seconds of off time, and 10 bottom layers with 60 seconds of exposure. I’m getting consistent successful prints. Chess pieces come out with a brilliant frosted glass look. Some of my initial prints failed due to my own fault of using light supports and supports that were too long. I just bought another bottle of the clear resin. I used isopropanol to clean the models in my photos. Its possible that this would have been clear if I used Resinaway or some other product. Acetone cleaning produced the same frosted glass results. I printed a larger rook that appeared a little more yellow than the others. The model was not hollowed. Im very happy with the smaller chess pieces. I think it’s worth the $30 I paid.

Great value, shipped quickly

I love the price on this stuff but I have only one problem with it. After the print cures in UV it goes from a beautiful clear to a frosty. It works as its supposed to tho so no problemo.

This resin has been very difficult to use and there is not a lot of support for print settings and post cure processes. If your a beginner, I would suggest getting a resin that is not translucent. After some reasearch and talking with colleges, I have found that the clear resins tend to have some special characteristics: - The UV light will bleed through while printing, causing the prints to have additional half cured drippy surface. I have found that this can be taken off between wash and cure, but it is a tedious extra step. This gets better with slower lift speed (I use 60mm/s) - The cure time (for me) of this resin is 9s (elegoo Saturn s [monochrome]). This is much longer than what is documented on the website. - The viscosity of this resin is very high. It is advertised to print best at 20-25c, but my reasearch has told me these structural resins print better at 30c. I will be trying this soon. Edit: printing at higher temperatures helps a lot. It lowered my cure time and allowed me to use a faster retract speed.

this resin is a tough nut to crack. It failed on me on multiple occasion and ruining my fep. the supports would print fine, but what is support would fail and cure at the bottom of the tank. i got some result when the curing time was set to 17 sec, but even then, 50% chance of failure. I love the eleegoo grey, but this one is just too troublesome.

When I bought my 3D printer (Elegoo Mars 2 Pro), I got two resins. The Elegoo ABS-like Gray, and the Siraya Tech Gray. The Elegoo Gray resin has worked very well, however Ive noticed that it tends to take the edges off the prints. I can understand why some might want this. Its similar to applying a slight blur to remove aliasing from an image. You get less of that wood grain look after a print has finished when using it. I would recommend this more for models and less for parts In comparison the Siraya Tech resin doesnt seem to do this as much. Its much less soft and makes prints with harder edges, which means that wood grain look is more prominent. But this also means that it can print finer details on models as well. I would recommend this for part making over models.