Fluid Film 1 Gallon Can Rust Inhibitor Rust Prevention Anti Corrosion Anti Rust Coating Undercoating Underbody Rust Proofing Corrosion Protection for Truck Snow Blower Mower Car Semi Tractor Bus

Initially, this product looked very nice when it was applied. Here in Central New York State, where DOT uses salt on the roads all winter long, this was a waste of time and money. By spring, there was no trace of it on the underbody. I only washed the top of the car, never the underbody to prevent it from being washed off. This year Im trying waxoyl hard wax and electronic rustproofing together.

Product will be used to undercoat 1981 VW Bus. The gallon can top was slightly loosened and leaking into plastic sealed bag. The can was laying on its side in shipping box, probably side loaded pinching can and loosening top. THIS side up may be an option. Thank you for prompt delivery.

Used for under vehicle rust protection.

this is a good non petroleum rustproofing

Well this stuff is gross. Perhaps as it should be. It does smell nice and make your hands feel good which is rare. Dirt gets stuck all over it but maybe thats a good thing. I sprayed part of the truck a few months ago and it is sticking around in a nice greasy coat. Will do the rest before winter hits and hope for the best. I just hope the salty slime spray doesnt wash it off

Resembles axle grease. It remains wet when applied, and does not dry. It is not a hard rubber material: It is dissimilar to an exposed bed liner coating like Rhino. As far as I can tell, it does not seep or penetrate into the sheet metal seams by itself (I could be wrong). We thinned it 50/50 by volume with low-odor mineral spirits, and mixed it with a stick and with shaking. A plastic jar with a lid or a half-empty can works well. It may be beneficial to take the 50/50 mix to a paint seller and have them put the gallons on a shaker. We do not use a sprayer to apply it, but a one quart thumb-pump oil can from McMaster Carr. We bought a standard hose for oil, and for a sprayer had a brass one from McMaster carr that had a check valve built into it. Inside areas we used the flexi-tube squirter that comes on the oil can. My son was successful at staying quite clean using this system. The non-toxic rust proof we think is Lanolin, from sheep. We called it Sheep Juice. It does not irritate your hands, washes out of clothes readily, and makes your skin soft like hand lotion. We have always used hand pumps to apply, with narrow nozzles you can apply through existing drain holes except for needing a 5/16 hole about 16 inches up from the bottom of the B-Pillar(coupe) or C-Pillar (sedan) so you dont have to keep pulling the lining out of the trunk. This small hole is covered by the door when you shut it. It is a maintenance task, slowing down rust as all rust-proofers work. The ones that cure (turn solid) only hold in water and cause the rust-through to be faster. For surfaces exposed to weather and splash Id recommend some sort of paint (Rust-oleum and a brush?) as opposed to this rust-proofer. But on the plus side, It is easy to wash off (soap and water) so paint jobs can be easily touched up. In my opinion, it is the best it can be for a rust proofer. I have never found a magic rust-proofer that makes cars last forever in Michigan road salt, but I think this one can be part of an effective maintenance program for prolonging the life of a car or truck. Not needing to drill a bunch of holes, unpowered squirting equipment, non-toxic, and easy cleanup are advantages.

I used it for undrcoating and didnt realize that it doesnt set up. It stays fluid and drips. Had to remove all of it.

Ive been using this stuff for a few years now, and man what cant it do? I originally bought it as an undercoating for my vehicles. I live in MA where we salt the roads so much you would swear an ocean dried up and left the salt deposits behind on the black top. I lather up the cars twice a year and not only does it stop the salt from eating through the paint and causing rust it actually over time penetrates through the the existing rust and starts lifting it away little by little. I used to be careful not to get it on the exhaust of the vehicles but now I dont bother to worry about that. It just fizzles and burns off but does NOT catch fire. The only down side is the strange smell and concerned looks i get while at the traffic lights as the white smoke plumes from underneath the cars. For my old 99 pickup truck that was rusting along the firewall and othe parts of the engine I decided why not give this stuff a try? So I hosed off the engine bay walls, brake booster, and pretty much everything other than the alternator, fuse boxes, air intake box/hose, battery, and top and front of engine block with this stuff. The rust mostly gone in the engine bay after a couple of years. What cant this stuff do? Heres a list of what I found it can be used for; Car under coating Rust penetrator for removing bolts and freeing locks (use the spray can version for this) Wipe down rag for firearms Mixed with CLP for a good bore cleaner for blackpowder and smokeless rifles Lube garage door tracks Rust cleaner Snowthrower tines, chute, and drive train Tire shiner If its metal and you want it protected or lubed this is the stuff you want. Just dont drink it. Then again, this stuff probably cures cancer too.

Fluid film is awesome. Its messy to apply with the spray system but my 3 year old truck looks like new underneath. I buy it cheaper from a local store now. The price here is too high. I touch it up every year.

This stuff is great. I would definitely purchase it again and recommend it. In my case, I spoon the very thick FF into a plastic sprayer bottle, then put the bottle in an oven at a low temp for an hour or until the FF is quite runny and then apply/spray it. Works for me.