Fluid Film 1 Gallon Can Rust Inhibitor Rust Prevention Anti Corrosion Anti Rust Coating Undercoating Underbody Rust Proofing Corrosion Protection for Truck Snow Blower Mower Car Semi Tractor Bus

Mine was too thick to spray had to thin with vegetable oil not sure how effective it will be

Used for rustproofing my TJ jeep. Time will tell but it appears like it will work good. Goes on easily. Easy to clean up The gallon can did leak in shipping.

This is my first experience with undercoating but since I bought a gently used Chevy 2500HD and I live in northern Ohio I felt that I should protect my vehicle for the long haul. Firstly, I overbought. I got 2 gallons and planned on doing my truck, a small suv and a Honda Fit. Well after heating up the oil and using a spray gun, I used a single canister which I believe to be about 32 oz on my truck, that figure counts for 2 coats as well. I’m not too sure on some of you saying you used a whole gallon because I can’t see how that’s feasible unless it was brushed on (definitely not spending that kind of time on that big of a vehicle.) all in all, I have plenty of product for the next few years at least. The viscosity from the cold initially was like pudding but after heating it up with a turbo heater it became very maple syrup like. Do that and you’ll have no issues. Use a tarp too! It protects from overspray and you can easily slide around on the concrete lol Update March 2019 The rust proofing seemed to stay on during the winter. My fine mist did well from what the eye can see and as a tester to see how long it would last, I put it on the face of my tires much like a tire shine, and when I get my truck washed the tires still shine where I applied it! So screw all other tire foams just use this. I’ll be applying it again next fall for sure. Also it appears the price fluctuated based on demand by $10 so something to consider. I think the next time I apply the product I’ll try to find another way to make it very thin and sprayable, like a heating probe or a hot knife tool? I’m open to suggestions because kerosene is expensive and smelly. Good product!!

I cant yet comment on how well it works - its been on the car only for 4 days. I used a 3 brush to apply it, which was tiring (car was on ramps in front. I later drove the rear onto 2x6s (doubled to get 3 lift) to do the back end of my car (I didnt try the ramps for the rear wheels). Getting the car up higher would have made it easier (finding/hiring a shop to do it would be even easier!). It seems to stay oily, it does not harden to a wax, to my surprise. Hard to believe it wont wash off after a few car washes, but we shall see. It is lighter than paint (the can is light). Its moderately thick - when you stir it with a paint/stirring stick, the top surface (barely) holds its shape after stirring.,,like a very thick gravy but not quite as thick as grease. It goes on thin though (unless you purposely glob it on and do not spread it), like a hot wax. Im using it on my new 2013 Ford Focus (which I did not drive it last winter). Quite a bit of the car is already covered by plastic aero covers and the engine bay has a felt cover under it (and cars do not rust up there anyhow). rockers are also well covered, and some of the car had the bumpy factory undercoating, which I did not cover with fluid film. I covered the rear springs well but it was hard to get the fronts - the well that they are in is a tight fit. -> I therefore strongly suggest you also buy a can or two of the spray to more easily coat hard to reach areas such as the coil springs. I also covered the bottom few inches of the doors (inner side of course). A day or two earlier, I (silicone) caulked the bottom of the doors - Ford does not weld the bottom lip! I also caulked the top edge of the rocker covers to ensure water does not get under there. The car is driven around Syracuse, NY - the perfect test site. Its often the snowiest (and saltiest) city of over 100k population. Cars still rust here, often visibly after 7 years. My last car (not just mine, all of them rusted) had a lot of rust by 7 years underneath, holes in the rocker panels after 10 years, and the rear jacking areas were too weak after 9 or 10 years. I drove it 5 more years.

Needs to be applied at least twice a year. Works better than you think. Saves thousands of dollars in salt related repairs. Wish I applied this stuff years ago. It’s awesome and it’s truly non conductive. I spray it on everything including inside the fuse panels in the engine bay. It’s really good stuff!

Easy to spray and not the black undercoating Clear, would recommend

The Gallon is enough for 3-4 Applications of my Jeep. Applying via a Gun/air is a bit messy, but, worth the effort. For those who have yet to apply, it is gooey, smelly and the first few drives, a bunch of white smoke. What I gain is an under carriage blocked from Salt, yuck, mud, water, sand and whatever else your frame can get off the road. So, a little work saves your vehicle for a long time. I also spray it on my Mower decks.

Ask me again in a few years, but so far I think this stuff is great. I havent treated the entire underbody of my vehicles yet but treated some of the areas with the most rust about 6 weeks ago. A lot of the rust will wipe right off in the areas I treated. I have some tie down brackets that connect to my truck camper when it is on the truck and they were starting to rust badly. I treated them and almost all the rust wiped off them. I was worried about them getting weak and having to replace them .... not a problem now. Definitely gonna treat the remainder of my vehicles yet this fall.

Resembles axle grease. It remains wet when applied, and does not dry. It is not a hard rubber material: It is dissimilar to an exposed bed liner coating like Rhino. As far as I can tell, it does not seep or penetrate into the sheet metal seams by itself (I could be wrong). We thinned it 50/50 by volume with low-odor mineral spirits, and mixed it with a stick and with shaking. A plastic jar with a lid or a half-empty can works well. It may be beneficial to take the 50/50 mix to a paint seller and have them put the gallons on a shaker. We do not use a sprayer to apply it, but a one quart thumb-pump oil can from McMaster Carr. We bought a standard hose for oil, and for a sprayer had a brass one from McMaster carr that had a check valve built into it. Inside areas we used the flexi-tube squirter that comes on the oil can. My son was successful at staying quite clean using this system. The non-toxic rust proof we think is Lanolin, from sheep. We called it Sheep Juice. It does not irritate your hands, washes out of clothes readily, and makes your skin soft like hand lotion. We have always used hand pumps to apply, with narrow nozzles you can apply through existing drain holes except for needing a 5/16 hole about 16 inches up from the bottom of the B-Pillar(coupe) or C-Pillar (sedan) so you dont have to keep pulling the lining out of the trunk. This small hole is covered by the door when you shut it. It is a maintenance task, slowing down rust as all rust-proofers work. The ones that cure (turn solid) only hold in water and cause the rust-through to be faster. For surfaces exposed to weather and splash Id recommend some sort of paint (Rust-oleum and a brush?) as opposed to this rust-proofer. But on the plus side, It is easy to wash off (soap and water) so paint jobs can be easily touched up. In my opinion, it is the best it can be for a rust proofer. I have never found a magic rust-proofer that makes cars last forever in Michigan road salt, but I think this one can be part of an effective maintenance program for prolonging the life of a car or truck. Not needing to drill a bunch of holes, unpowered squirting equipment, non-toxic, and easy cleanup are advantages.

I used about 2.5 bottles from the Kellersport pro sprayer pack to do my entire truck, frame and rockers. This stuff is the best way to prevent any more rust from appearing. NOTE: The 5 gallon pail somehow comes out way better, it is much thinner than this one gallon.