Leviton DZPA1-2BW Decora Smart Plug-in Outlet with Z-Wave Technology, White, Repeater/Range Extender

I finally goth this outlet to work with Alexa and my SmartThings hub. I followed the instructions and loaded the Leviton app but I could never get the software to recognize the plug. I finally used add a device on SmartThings and it popped right up. I was then able to use Alexa and IFTTT to turn if off and on with voice commands. Ditch the Leviton software.

Reading through the reviews on this and its companion remote I wasnt clearly able to pick up a couple of key points So here goes: First the good: For a 3 way , or greater(up to 4 remotes) switch if you buy the pair and set them up correctly you will have a commercial grade well sorted system capable of independent switching and dimming from both locations including with some neat customizable features and full Zwave integration ( Samsung smarthings controller). So 5 stars Now the rest: If you just buy the primary and wire it with a conventional 3 way at the other end you will have working lights and some z-wave control BUT the lights must switched back on from the switch last used to turn them off which will often defeat the purpose of having 3 way. Second dont make the mistake of assuming the color coding of the terminals matches that of a conventional 3 -way . If you wire it this way it wont function. Instead think of the remote switch as a satellite of the primary with its own hot and neutral connections and a single control wire (terminal YL/RD) going to the primary. Follow the wiring instructions carefully. So overall an excellent if pricey system.

The Leviton works! It dims smoothly, and it integrates nicely with SmartThings, Google, and Alexa. For our kitchen, which has Halo recessed lights, it took us 3 tries to find a smart dimmer that worked. The Leviton was the winner. What didnt work with Halo can lights for a home automation setup: * GE Enbrighten Z-wave dimmers: flickered and strobed horribly. Look great and work great with other light fixtures though. Our favorites overall. * Legrand wifi dimmer: no SmartThings integration (yet); youre limited to the Legrand app. This was a deal-breaker for us. Dims smoothly though! The Leviton was the best solution for us. For recessed lights, it will be the first dimmer we try in the future. For other kinds of dimmable lights, well go with the GE, mainly because we like the appearance better. You press and hold to dim the lights, which to our taste is a little more elegant than the separate dimmer control and indicator lights. But the GE just doesnt work with our Halo can lights.

Finally, a z-wave switch that dims LEDs without buzzing or flickering. I tried Jasco (GE) and Homeseer and they either didnt dim enough, buzzed when dimmed, or made the bulbs flicker... or some combination. I havent tried the z-wave feature yet, but super happy that we finally have a switch to dim our fixture with 18 edison-style LEDs. Giving it 4 instead of 5 stars only because the feel of the switch and rocker feel a little cheaper than other switches, but they look great.

I have department 56 on a shelf and have all the houses connected to the Leviton smart plug timed to go on at a certain time and to go off as well. I love the way it was so easy to program with my wink app

I welcomed the new design over the older Levitons (like the VRMX series): Instead of a single paddle, its now a rocker (great if you cannot see the light youre switching like an outdoor garage light). The dimmer rocker is also a huge improvement over the old horizontal dimmer that was next to impossible to engage (you had to push hard with your fingernails). I have an older hub (vera), and the switch can pair in legacy mode. I was able to do so relatively easily. The bad: not all the functions are accessible through the paddle. You have to program some of the features over zWave (like the dim rates). Its not a huge deal, but Im puzzled why they made that choice. Another annoyance is if youre dimming a light (pressing down on the dimmer rocker), instead of stopping at the minimum dim-point, the switch will turn off. All in all, its nice, but could be better.

This works great, once I got it properly installed. However, that took 3 days and about 7 phone calls to Leviton support. Thats mostly because I was doing a 3-way installation where one box has the load and line and the other box only has a 3-wire bundle (this is called a dead-end box). The instructions only cover a 3-way where one box has the load and the other box has the line. The diagram in the instructions also cost me hours of head-scratching- Im not an electrician, so maybe its my fault, but hopefully you can learn from my experience. Here are some tips and detailed instructions, based on my electrical setup. Maybe I can save you some time and frustration. 1. Put the connections in under the terminal plates. For some reason, their online video shows the method of wrapping each connection around the terminal screw. But getting the wires wrapped tightly was not always easy, and making changes was time consuming. Just stick the flat wire in under the plate and be done with it! 2. If, like me, you are not an electrician, use the wiring diagram for the single pole application for your dimmer and ignore the diagram for the dimmer in the 3-way. If you are looking at the front of your switch, you will see that your line black (hot/from power) goes to the black screw on the right top. The neutral (white) goes to the silver screw on the left top. And the load black (to the lights) goes to the red screw on the left bottom. If you compare the two wiring diagrams, youll see that the position of the YL/RED terminal appears to switch from the right to the left side of the switch. I thought this had something to do with the way the 3-way circuit worked. It doesnt. It has to do with some technical writer who wanted to draw a straight line from YL/RD to YL/RD. The customer support agent who finally helped me realize this critical mistake chastised me for not looking at the labels of each terminal. These labels are on a sticker on the back of the box, however, so if youve connected your ground, its really difficult to see the back of the box. 3. If you are installing a 3-way, make sure you get the DD00R-DLZ remote. DO NOT GET THE DD0SR. One Amazon page has a chart that says the SR is compatible. It is definitely not. 4. If you call customer support, realize not all agents are equally capable of helping you. One agent told me it was impossible to install this switch in a 3-way dead end setup. Luckily, I had already talked with 2 other agents who said it was possible, so I corrected him. He also said that I could leave out the line neutral, because it was unnecessary. Guess what? The line (power/from circuit breaker) neutral is absolutely necessary to complete the circuit. 5. In a 3-way dead-end setup, heres how you will have to connect the two switches. First, make sure you have a 3-wire bundle running between the two switches (this actually means 4 wires including the ground). Mine are black, white, and red, so I will refer to them using those colors, but as long as you have three wires and a ground, youre good to go. On the top right (Black terminal), I have the black line (power/ hot) under one side of the clamp and the Black Traveler that goes to box 2 under the other side of the clamp. Two wires- one terminal. Below that terminal, on the bottom right, I have the Red Traveler that goes to box 2 under the clamp of a silver screw (this is the YL/RD terminal). On the bottom left, on the red screw (RD terminal), I have the black load (goes to my lights). For the final terminal, on the top left (the WH terminal), I had to use a wire nut to clamp together the White/ Neutral line (from the power) with the White/ Neutral Traveler that goes to Box 2 AND a pigtail (a short piece of wire). The pigtail is then connected under one side of the WH clamp and the White/Neutral Load (goes to lights) is under the other side of the WH clamp. Two wires- one terminal. One agent told me I could pigtail all 4 wires together, but it was easier to just connect 2 wires to the terminal. 6. The other box was easy peasy, once I had Box 1 straightened out. The Black Traveler goes to top right BK terminal, the Red Traveler to the bottom right YL/RD terminal, and the White/ Neutral goes to the top left WH terminal.