Leviton DZPA1-2BW Decora Smart Plug-in Outlet with Z-Wave Technology, White, Repeater/Range Extender

I already had a Leviton DW3HL-1BW dimmer plug which links directly to my mobile devices & computer (no controller required). It looks exactly like this Z-Wave version. When Amazon had its big sale, I bought them, not reading the details that say it needs a Z-Wave controller. When I got around to installing them, it was past the return date and so they are unusable. That said, the no controller required DW3HL-1BW version works great.

Works great, sound not that great but understandable for the size

I have department 56 on a shelf and have all the houses connected to the Leviton smart plug timed to go on at a certain time and to go off as well. I love the way it was so easy to program with my wink app

I filled our house with Leviton Smart switches and smart plugs all work great and are very easy to set up. Once the family learned the names of each everyone loves them. We had fun last Christmas with Alexa Routines turning on our Christmas lights setting them to music with one phrase. I start my day in my office activating my fans and light, and music with one phrase, has been fun and convenient. I set a couple of room to also auto off in an hour because the lights were always being left on but with voice control no big deal. Had a couple of issues in the beginning but phone support was great, they stuck with me until resolved.

I have 2 Leviton switches and 11 Leviton Dimmers. 3 of the DZ6HD and 8 of the DZMX1. I just installed the DZ6HD and found that you cant configure it like the older dimmer switches. The older ones can be configured and fully customized thru the paddle itself. The advanced options on the DZ6HD such as Fade On Time, Fade Off Time and Preset Light Levels can not be programmed despite their instructions. Their instructions said they can be Configurable through the paddle as well as over the Z-Wave Network. However, the instructions dont tell you how to customize it through the paddle or how to do it over the Z-Wave network. I called their Technical Supoort and they told me that the instructions are wrong, you cant customize it through the paddles and there is nothing on the market that can customize those features at this time, not even their own app!. Why does this matter? For those that have these set on timers, schedules or link them to themes and have them set to dim, youll have to turn the dimmer up every time if you want full lighting. They will only go on as brigdht as the last setting. Also, if you like the ability to control how fast they fade on and off then youre out of luck in that regard also. I bought 3 of these units and cant return them. Im stuck with smart switches that are dumber than their previous version.

I have a bunch of Z-Wave home automation devices, and the Leviton Decora Smart components generally seem to be the most responsive and easiet to use. This is no exception. I plugged a set of strand lights into it and can now setup some really lovely scenes on my back patio using SmartThings, Alexa, and Home Assistant for control. Great product!

Works perfectly with SmartThings. This a Z-Wave Plus switch. I recommend going with Z-Wave Plus if you have a Z-Wave Plus controller as it has better range than original Z-Wave. Please note that this switch requires 4 wires - Black to Hot, Red to Load (may be a Black wire going to Load), White to Neutral and Green (or bare) to ground. If you do not see a Red wire in the box, be sure to determine which Black wire is Hot (by using a probe) - this connects to the Black terminal on the switch. The other Black wire goes to the Load and connects to the Red terminal on the switch. The wiring directions are included but are not easy to understand. If unsure, please contact an electrician. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO WIRE UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!

Works as advertised. Completely happy. It came with the light almond face plate. I installed and had it working with Ring/Alexa within about 30 minutes. Would recommend and plan to purchase again in the near future.

The first one I got I returned a couple days after installing it because the dimmer stopped working. I found that if I kill the power from the breaker for a minute and turn it back on, the dimmer would start working again. The replacement I got does the same thing, just not as frequently. Every couple months, the dimmer just doesnt respond to any input on the smartthings app or on the switch. It stays on or wont go on until I kill the power on the breaker for a minute and turn it back on again. Its annoying. I bought a bunch of light switches too and all those have worked flawlessly.

This works great, once I got it properly installed. However, that took 3 days and about 7 phone calls to Leviton support. Thats mostly because I was doing a 3-way installation where one box has the load and line and the other box only has a 3-wire bundle (this is called a dead-end box). The instructions only cover a 3-way where one box has the load and the other box has the line. The diagram in the instructions also cost me hours of head-scratching- Im not an electrician, so maybe its my fault, but hopefully you can learn from my experience. Here are some tips and detailed instructions, based on my electrical setup. Maybe I can save you some time and frustration. 1. Put the connections in under the terminal plates. For some reason, their online video shows the method of wrapping each connection around the terminal screw. But getting the wires wrapped tightly was not always easy, and making changes was time consuming. Just stick the flat wire in under the plate and be done with it! 2. If, like me, you are not an electrician, use the wiring diagram for the single pole application for your dimmer and ignore the diagram for the dimmer in the 3-way. If you are looking at the front of your switch, you will see that your line black (hot/from power) goes to the black screw on the right top. The neutral (white) goes to the silver screw on the left top. And the load black (to the lights) goes to the red screw on the left bottom. If you compare the two wiring diagrams, youll see that the position of the YL/RED terminal appears to switch from the right to the left side of the switch. I thought this had something to do with the way the 3-way circuit worked. It doesnt. It has to do with some technical writer who wanted to draw a straight line from YL/RD to YL/RD. The customer support agent who finally helped me realize this critical mistake chastised me for not looking at the labels of each terminal. These labels are on a sticker on the back of the box, however, so if youve connected your ground, its really difficult to see the back of the box. 3. If you are installing a 3-way, make sure you get the DD00R-DLZ remote. DO NOT GET THE DD0SR. One Amazon page has a chart that says the SR is compatible. It is definitely not. 4. If you call customer support, realize not all agents are equally capable of helping you. One agent told me it was impossible to install this switch in a 3-way dead end setup. Luckily, I had already talked with 2 other agents who said it was possible, so I corrected him. He also said that I could leave out the line neutral, because it was unnecessary. Guess what? The line (power/from circuit breaker) neutral is absolutely necessary to complete the circuit. 5. In a 3-way dead-end setup, heres how you will have to connect the two switches. First, make sure you have a 3-wire bundle running between the two switches (this actually means 4 wires including the ground). Mine are black, white, and red, so I will refer to them using those colors, but as long as you have three wires and a ground, youre good to go. On the top right (Black terminal), I have the black line (power/ hot) under one side of the clamp and the Black Traveler that goes to box 2 under the other side of the clamp. Two wires- one terminal. Below that terminal, on the bottom right, I have the Red Traveler that goes to box 2 under the clamp of a silver screw (this is the YL/RD terminal). On the bottom left, on the red screw (RD terminal), I have the black load (goes to my lights). For the final terminal, on the top left (the WH terminal), I had to use a wire nut to clamp together the White/ Neutral line (from the power) with the White/ Neutral Traveler that goes to Box 2 AND a pigtail (a short piece of wire). The pigtail is then connected under one side of the WH clamp and the White/Neutral Load (goes to lights) is under the other side of the WH clamp. Two wires- one terminal. One agent told me I could pigtail all 4 wires together, but it was easier to just connect 2 wires to the terminal. 6. The other box was easy peasy, once I had Box 1 straightened out. The Black Traveler goes to top right BK terminal, the Red Traveler to the bottom right YL/RD terminal, and the White/ Neutral goes to the top left WH terminal.