Leviton DZPA1-2BW Decora Smart Plug-in Outlet with Z-Wave Technology, White, Repeater/Range Extender

This works great, once I got it properly installed. However, that took 3 days and about 7 phone calls to Leviton support. Thats mostly because I was doing a 3-way installation where one box has the load and line and the other box only has a 3-wire bundle (this is called a dead-end box). The instructions only cover a 3-way where one box has the load and the other box has the line. The diagram in the instructions also cost me hours of head-scratching- Im not an electrician, so maybe its my fault, but hopefully you can learn from my experience. Here are some tips and detailed instructions, based on my electrical setup. Maybe I can save you some time and frustration. 1. Put the connections in under the terminal plates. For some reason, their online video shows the method of wrapping each connection around the terminal screw. But getting the wires wrapped tightly was not always easy, and making changes was time consuming. Just stick the flat wire in under the plate and be done with it! 2. If, like me, you are not an electrician, use the wiring diagram for the single pole application for your dimmer and ignore the diagram for the dimmer in the 3-way. If you are looking at the front of your switch, you will see that your line black (hot/from power) goes to the black screw on the right top. The neutral (white) goes to the silver screw on the left top. And the load black (to the lights) goes to the red screw on the left bottom. If you compare the two wiring diagrams, youll see that the position of the YL/RED terminal appears to switch from the right to the left side of the switch. I thought this had something to do with the way the 3-way circuit worked. It doesnt. It has to do with some technical writer who wanted to draw a straight line from YL/RD to YL/RD. The customer support agent who finally helped me realize this critical mistake chastised me for not looking at the labels of each terminal. These labels are on a sticker on the back of the box, however, so if youve connected your ground, its really difficult to see the back of the box. 3. If you are installing a 3-way, make sure you get the DD00R-DLZ remote. DO NOT GET THE DD0SR. One Amazon page has a chart that says the SR is compatible. It is definitely not. 4. If you call customer support, realize not all agents are equally capable of helping you. One agent told me it was impossible to install this switch in a 3-way dead end setup. Luckily, I had already talked with 2 other agents who said it was possible, so I corrected him. He also said that I could leave out the line neutral, because it was unnecessary. Guess what? The line (power/from circuit breaker) neutral is absolutely necessary to complete the circuit. 5. In a 3-way dead-end setup, heres how you will have to connect the two switches. First, make sure you have a 3-wire bundle running between the two switches (this actually means 4 wires including the ground). Mine are black, white, and red, so I will refer to them using those colors, but as long as you have three wires and a ground, youre good to go. On the top right (Black terminal), I have the black line (power/ hot) under one side of the clamp and the Black Traveler that goes to box 2 under the other side of the clamp. Two wires- one terminal. Below that terminal, on the bottom right, I have the Red Traveler that goes to box 2 under the clamp of a silver screw (this is the YL/RD terminal). On the bottom left, on the red screw (RD terminal), I have the black load (goes to my lights). For the final terminal, on the top left (the WH terminal), I had to use a wire nut to clamp together the White/ Neutral line (from the power) with the White/ Neutral Traveler that goes to Box 2 AND a pigtail (a short piece of wire). The pigtail is then connected under one side of the WH clamp and the White/Neutral Load (goes to lights) is under the other side of the WH clamp. Two wires- one terminal. One agent told me I could pigtail all 4 wires together, but it was easier to just connect 2 wires to the terminal. 6. The other box was easy peasy, once I had Box 1 straightened out. The Black Traveler goes to top right BK terminal, the Red Traveler to the bottom right YL/RD terminal, and the White/ Neutral goes to the top left WH terminal.

So far it works great. Easy setup compared to others on the market. Works with NEXIA

This was difficult to set up because the Wink Hub instructions for it were wrong - no surprise there. A call to Leviton and it was quickly resolved. The big problem is that, after a power failure, it doesnt remember whether it was on or off so it always restarts in the off state. That make it useless for my application. I just found another z-wave switch that will work and its less than half the price. Leviton - good company, bad product.

I bought mine used from Amazon Warehouse and it works just fine. It paired without any issues to my Vera Edge. The only complaint is the range is kind of lacking. If I dont position it just right where its located, the Edge will lose sight of it. This is an issue with a lot of my devices here in PR, though.

Best z-wave plug I’ve used. Reliable product. Note: if using Wink hub, the Wink “add product” wizard initially fails to recognize that this plug is added to network. To add to Wink, use the “add product” wizard, and when prompted to add the plug, you need to hold the plug button until it flashes Amber, then take the plug button once to flash green.. The wizard will complain that it could not find the plug, but if you close the wizard at this point, you will see that Wink actually DID add the product successfully!! Added both of my plugs this way, and they now work wonderfully with Wink.

I have a bunch of Z-Wave home automation devices, and the Leviton Decora Smart components generally seem to be the most responsive and easiet to use. This is no exception. I plugged a set of strand lights into it and can now setup some really lovely scenes on my back patio using SmartThings, Alexa, and Home Assistant for control. Great product!

I have two of these and they work very well with my Wink Hub 2. Setting them up in Wink is easy and they pair quickly. The internal relay emits a fairly loud click when you activate the outlet. I like that there is a small button on the outside of the case for “manual” control. They even work through several walls and in my garage where my Christmas lights hook up. Now the lights come on before we get home and my son loves it.

I have one other Leviton device and it is at the far end of the house. It disconnects and has to be reconnected to my Wink hub periodically. Last week it disconnected again. Being house-bound due to the Corona Virus, I decided to spend some time and try to fix this problem once and for all. I went to Amazon and bought this and installed it at about a halfway point between my hub and the older installed Leviton switch, so that the Z-wave at the far end of the house could make a better link to my hub with this as a bridge device. In wiring it, the Red terminal has to go to the load - I incorrectly connected the load to the white terminal at first, and then found my error and reconnected it properly. You need a Neutral wire in the box connected to the White terminal to use the switch. (Hint: You can go against code and use the ground wire as a neutral if the box does not have a neutral, if the switch is not already on a ground fault, as the ground wire is exactly the same polarity as a neutral wire). The difficult thing for me was linking it the new Leviton switch to my WINK hub. You have to put the hub in the linking mode, which is not hard to do with the app on my Android phone. You then have to depress the Leviton switch (either turning it On or Off) until the solid green light at the base of the switch turns on. Once that occurs, you depress the Leviton switch using the top of the switch (the On portion) for seven seconds or until the solid green light starts to flash. I did this repeatedly with no success - and that was my fault. There is one more step - and that is what I missed at first. Once the green light is flashing, you have to depress the switch one more time in order to initiate the pairing sequence. After about an hour of false starts, I re-read the instructions and found that I had missed this last step. Once I discovered this (it was in the instructions provided by Leviton, but I missed it), the pairing happened in a few seconds. Whew. I followed the prompt and named the new switch for the light that it controlled. Then I went to the WINK app on the phone and selected Z-wave Network Rediscovery to remap the Z-wave signal. Everything worked great. Finally I went to my Amazon Alexa, and verbally asked it to discover new devices. It found the new switch in about 30 seconds, and from that point on I could control the switch from Alexa. Finally I went to the original problem Leviton switch at the far end of the house. After putting the WINK hub in the pairing mode, I first disconnected that switch from the WINK hub. I then went through the Leviton Reset process (which consisted of putting the switch in the flashing mode and pressing the top of the switch several times). I then went to the WINK app and disconnected that switch from my WINK hub. Once that was done, I reconnected that Leviton switch to the WINK hub using the same sequence. I used to connect the new switch. I named my original switch by a new name just to be certain that Alexa would not be confused. I am not sure if I needed to do that or not, but I did and it worked great. I then used the Zwave Network Rediscovery option on the WINK app to make sure that the original switch was using the optimum path for its signal (there is no way to confirm that it is using the optimum path - I just hoped it would do so). Finally I went back to the Alexa App and discovered the renamed switch. Now everything works great. In summary, the Leviton works fine, but it difficult to link due in part to the Z-Wave technology. I found the Moes brand switches (they do not use Z-Wave) to be less expensive and far superior if connecting to a 3-way circuit (you only need to replace one of the 3-way switches with the Moes brand - incredibly clever technology by the switch designer - and although Moes had some bad reviews on Amazon, Moes has worked reliably for me for over a year wherever I installed it, and installed three of them). But once you have started with a Z-wave, you have to use other Z-wave devices to set up a decent network. Hope this info is helpful to others who have selected Z-Wave.

This was easy to install. It was easily connected to my Ring security system, and works great..

Works great and was easy to pair with SmartThings. Will see how longevity is in a garage controlling water heater. Id give it 5 stars if it was 20% cheaper.